10 Fun Things I Noticed in Paris
Last month, I was lucky enough to go on a work trip to Paris (definite pinch-me moment!), and here are 10 fun things I noticed around the city, if you’d like to see…
1. The street style was as gorgeous as ever. I loved those studded ballet flats, above. (We also featured a full Paris street-style recap on Big Salad today.)
2. I was there for a project with Sézane, so I stayed near their office at Le Grand Hôtel Cayré in the 6th arrondissement. The room was very pretty, and the ceiling lamp looked like an onion, especially when you’re in a jet-lag fog.
3. The view from the room!
4. The first day, I met one of Sézane’s team members for lunch at a nearby brasserie called Le Petit Lutetia, where we had chicken, green beans, and mashed potatoes. Their dessert menu listed “chocolate mousse for party of two, three, or four,” and “rice pudding from my childhood,” but we went for “the very thin apple pie,” which was served with warm salted caramel sauce and whipped cream. I’m going to try to replicate this at home for the boys.
5. Everyone around us was also ordering their whole lettuce, which was just that: a whole lettuce in a bowl with olive oil, lemon, chives, salt, and pepper. Very cool.
6. Then I biked over to the Eiffel Tower, sat in the grass, and people-watched. Chubby babies were running around chasing bubbles, and lots of people were lying in the grass, kissing. Paris is nothing if not brand consistent.
7. I also spotted lots of older men wearing pants in bright colors, like kelly green, which is a trend here in Brooklyn, too.
8. Another afternoon, I walked over to Merci, the three-story concept store in the Marais.
9. How cute is this collectible man with a suitcase? The store is really fun to window-shop — for example, check out their cashmere bandana, croissant postcard, children’s cutlery, and toy pig.
10. And don’t you love seeing other countries’ cover designs of popular books? Yesteryear looks much more compelling in Europe!
Here was my final evening, feeling very lucky. A few other long-time Paris recs: the magical lunch spot, Mokonuts; Bourse de Commerce, a small and wonderful museum; and the sculpture garden at the Rodin Museum. As they say, Paris is always a good idea. xoxo
Have you been to Paris, or are you lucky enough to live there? What recs do you have? I’d love to hear!
P.S. A past Paris trip with my mom, and sweet photos of my parents having twin babies in Paris.
(Lettuce photo by Fellowship of the Fork/Instagram.)
Tags: personal
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111 commentsLate to the party, but it made me giggle that I’ve only seen this cover of Yesteryear; and it is indeed on my bookshelf in The Netherlands! I actually had to look up what other versions there were as I could not conjure it in my head.
I live in Girona, Spain and my husband’s cousin, Fermin, owns the company that sells the little tin traveler (and many other tin toys) to Merci. As a longtime reader, so happy to see it here!
I’m shaking my head at that first photo. Why anyone would be hunched over staring at their phone while sitting in one of the most amazing cities in the world, on a beautiful fall day is beyond me. I want to shout, “STOP, YOU’RE IN PARIS.”
Respectfully, You don’t know the context. Maybe – they are dialing their loved one to say they reached Paris without issue. Or – they are turning on a podcast so they can listen while getting lost wandering the streets Or – texting a friend who is trying to find them to meet for coffee.
Hahaha, such an American comment! Maybe they are Parisians and being in Paris is not some sugary fairy tale but just everyday life?
As for the book covers in other countries….YES! I go to Victoria BC at least once a year…it’s an easy hop from the Olympic Penninsula, and we always love to hit Munros Bookstore. It’s in an old bank building, and they’ve got a great selection. I actually got the first British edition of the first Harry Potter (where the desserts were called “puddings” ) I picked up “The Lake Effect” last spring…already in paperback there!
As a Canadian who is also obsessed with Munro’s, this brings me so much joy reading this comment!
Martha, hello to you from Port Townsend!
I love picking up books in other countries and other languages – we collect copies of The Little Prince/Le Petit Prince, wherever we travel.
Oh I love this so much! I have multiple versions of The Little Prince as well – in other languages, a pop up book version, a puzzle book… all a delight.
Crossing my fingers for a COJ x Sézane capsule collection!
I spent a good bit of time this summer in Paris, a city where I lived for 6 years. Going back always feels like a homecoming! Janice Macleod captured it well: “Though you may leave Paris, Paris never really leaves you.”
How do I find a job that includes a work trip to Paris? Sounds fabulous!
If you’re eager to stay in dreamy Paris mode, check out the gorgeous book Almost Life by Kiran Millwood Hargrave! About two young women who meet in Paris in the 1970s and begin a tumultuous love affair. I’m in the middle of it right now and it’s so beautiful!
Such a good book, I read it this summer!
Anyone with kid specific Paris recs? Our family is heading there in April with our 4yo son and 11yo daughter.
Admittedly, we have not taken our kids to Paris, but I daydream by following the.petit.guide on Instagram!
We live in Germany and went to Paris last summer. I did a croissant making class with our six year old, which was a lot of fun.
Ludo Jardin in Luxembourg Garden. A boat ride on the Seine. Jardin des Plantes. The cherry blossoms will be POPPING OFF in April – enjoy!!
We did a tour with Zoe from the Petit guide and it was fabulous! Our absolute favorite was the Musee de la Chasse et da Nature and if your days line up the Musée des Arts Forains was fun, although a bit more out of the way.
I lived in Paris for five years and go back often. Seek out, stroll through, and dawdle in the beautiful and quirky “passages.” The elegant passage Vivienne, the ookey passage du grand cerf, and many others.
I’ve been several times with my daughter who is now 10 (we live in the UK so it’s an easy train ride away to visit friends!) Highly recommended from our last couple of trips: Jardin d’Acclimatation, a beautifull amusement park from 1860 with rides to suit both little and big kids in the 16th, Wonderland Patisserie in the 14th for amazing (and very reasonably priced!) cakes in the shape of things like mushrooms or lighthouses or trees, Les Pavillons de Bercy, a fabulous fairground museum in the 12th (you need to book in advance, especially for the tour in English, but it is incredible, and you get to go on some of the old rides!) We didn’t make it to Mokonuts but did make it to Mokochaya which is their drop-in breakfast/lunch place which was kid friendly, relaxed and delicious! (Oh, and a couple of years ago my daughter was desperate to buy a beret when we visited – a friend suggested Galeries Lafayette, which is expensive and super touristy, but does have incredible views from the top floor and had reasonably priced made in France kids berets!)
We are going to Paris a year from now, so I don’t have Paris recommendations. However, this past summer, we took a 3 generation trip to Italy, and the highlight was the food tours and pasta-making classes. We took a food tour in Siena and a tour in Florence, and then the pasta class was in the countryside in Tuscany. Most food tour companies can tailor the tour to the needs of the group, which is good if, like me, you are vegetarian. They are a great way to learn about a location from a local – the culture, the history, and, of course, the food. I was proud of my kids for eating everything, including the lampredotto in Florence. In any event, we discovered that food tours were the highlight for everyone – from 80 year old grandparents to 8 year old kids. I plan to seek them out in France next year.
We took our kids to Paris when they were 2yo and 5yo and a few years later they still talk about the carousels! The one in the Jardín Luxembourg was my favorite. Also people-watching in playgrounds was a lot of fun. We also loved a restaurant on the Seine called Le Trumilou – not fancy but very good French food and very kid friendly.
*whole lettuce
French here and I have to say that sézane is getting wildly criticised here for letting down their clientèle and rightfully so. They are not interested in the middle class clients that helped build their success anymore , they are targeting international clients that are wealthy enough to buy their overpriced items .By changing its style the brand has lost its identity and now looks like any other brand . Bland and overpriced. Plus the items are low quality and mostly made in china and india . This is not what people signed up for , at least not in France . Loyal clients for 13+ years are feeling let down and dumped because the brand decided to change its strategy and target wealthier potential clients. Not a smart move.
Yes, absolutely the feedback I have from all of my girlfriends that have been buying sezane for themselves and their teenage /adult daughters for years… longtime clients buying for 2-4 women per family will not be buying any more.
I totally agree. I already saw glimpses of the “new look” and social media and openend the app today. It is so had. All the fun flowers prints, the little details etc. disappeared all that is left is overpriced beige and other neutral colours. Trop trop dommage :(
I went to their Instagram to follow the tea and they’ve apparently deleted all posts before August when they began launching this collection? is that standard for brands now? so weird.
I’ve actually listened to a very interesting marketing analysis of this move, which both financial reasons, but also: staying true to the nature of the brand (ie. the emotional side that spurs the purchases) – the brand based itself on selling the “parisienne” idea to all the wannabe parisians, be it from parisian suburbs, French regions, or New York. That it still true. But ever since any mom in Paris center was wearing Sézane, the brand stopped being as trendy, while the trendy Parisians now eye more minimalistic looks like Toteme, etc. So they kept the core concept of the business, but changed the style, AND upscaled it because the market they’re now competing in is more expensive and therefore more attractive to their shareholders (the podcast mentioned an American investmend fund). For those who speak French, you can find it on YouTube on Yann Leonardi’s channel. I thought it was interesting (but then I work in marketing).
Sadly, this happens to every small brand that gains some following and then grows exponentially. I can’t say I blame them for following the money, but the quality always goes downhill.
I couldn’t resist checking the menu for that trendy head lettuce… 16 euros, haha.
Café Gourmand! It is dessert with a bite size collection of all/many of the desserts the restaurant serves! As a person who often ends up with no dessert because I don’t want a whole piece of cake; it is a dream come true. Come on US restaurants let’s bring this stateside!
I agree – but imagine your arteries if this became an everyday food.
Kirby what a sad thing to say to someone who just shared that they found a way to finally eat dessert when they usually order nothing! I’m not sure how a place that sells tiny desserts is a danger—it sounds ideal. Have your tiny cake and eat it, too, Shannon!
You are such a gem, Katie!
I misread “cashmere bandana” as “cashmere BANANA” and I was excited about that prospect. The real thing is lovely too.
Wait haha I did too. I didn’t even realize my mistake until I saw your comment! I was just like “cool a banana stuffie!”
Hahaha! Have you ever seen the skit Banana/Bandana?
I love your blog and reading the comments. May it always exist as I always say.
Amen.
Amen. It’s like a heated blanket I reach for each day.
I would recommend the Melies museum, inside the Cinémathèque; it’s about the beginnings of cinema, and special effects and all the optic toys. You learn so much and its perfect for kids! Love from Paris
I second this! My daughter loved it.
I got to go to France this Summer for the first time and loved it. Paris is still on my list! Looks amazing.
What do you wear on the plane? I always struggle with this part of every long plane trip. I don’t want to look sloppy but comfortable and cute/chic. Is it possible?
My uniform for long flights is big loose pants with a drawstring but some element that makes them not look like PJs, so like a track stripe down the side or being made of linen (I don’t care about wrinkles). Pair that with a plain racerback tank top and a cropped zip-up or pull-over sweater or hoodie, often in the same or similar color to the pants. Monochrome dressing always looks intentional, in my opinion.
I just got a pair of black joggers from Old Navy. They are as comfy as sweats, but slightly more polished. I always struggled with this too! A big scarf can be nice too. Easy to shove into a bag, can be balled up as a pillow, spread as a blanket, then wrapped around your neck to look chic when you arrive. There are ALWAYS those people in the airport tho that I can’t fathom how they look so put together.
I personally swear by the Athleta Venice high rise wide leg pants. I have them in both black and camel, and they are perfect for flights. The waistband is nice and wide, so there is no digging into your stomach, and the zipped pocket options are perfect. I usually pair that with a t-shirt or tank, a cotton or cashmere cardigan, or light jacket, depending on the weather. These pants don’t wrinkle, but they basically feel like pajamas!
I always wear dark colors on flights to hide stains. One time on an oversees flight, the young woman sitting next to me was wearing an all white track suit type outfit. Wouldn’t you know the flight attendant spilled an entire glass of red wine on this woman – yikes.
Do not default to “athleisure” or sweats. Don’t give in. Comfortable, dignified trousers (not too close fitting) in natural fibers like cotton, linen, or a light worsted wool, a light but long-sleeved shirt with a collar, and shetland sweater, because the plane is sometimes too cold.
Joanna, your wine is also a play on words. Lâche la grappe (let go of the bunch of grapes!) also means “don’t bother me.”
So fun to learn. Thanks for sharing!
I was looking at the Rodin museum pictures and I’m startled at how it looks so extraordinarily similar to the Rodin museum in Philly! Including, of course, the thinker! Highly recommended for people visiting Philly! It’s right next to the glorious Barnes museum.
I’ve stayed at Astotel hotels twice and highly recommend! They have a thing called the Astotour, if you’re staying at one of their hotels you can use the open soft bar at any of their other properties (soft drinks, coffee, snacks, restrooms). The breakfast buffet is terrific and the mini bar in your room is free. https://www.astotel.com/en/
I dont want to do airbnbs and some hotels are just too pricey but this sounds just right. Thank you for sharing!
Where I am in France you can get an excellent tarte aux pommes at the supermarche. I will have to try serving it with caramel sauce. And yes to the men wearing fun colored pants- bonus if they are playing (arguing over…) a game of petanque. Paris does have the reputation for perfectly understated style, but I notice people here wearing more color than in the US.
Hope this helps! Have fun (it was fun for me to put together :))
Sports attend a basketball game at the Adidas Accor Arena (https://billetterie.parisbasketball.com/fr/) or a soccer game at the Parc des Princes (https://billetterie.psg.fr/fr/calendrier-des-matchs) or at the Stade de France (https://www.stadefrance.com/fr/le-pass-visite) or book a visit of the Stade de France (https://www.stadefrance.com/fr/le-pass-visite)
Would love your recommendations on where to find good mens trousers in fun colors. We moved to Switzerland 8 years ago and noticed that Swiss men have a thing for red trousers. Think the red is a very Swiss thing. We ended up making. deal that when my husband acquired a certain level of German skills, he’d get red trousers. It was not simple to find truly red ones. I returned or skipped over so many burgundy and terra cotta ones until I found good red ones but they were a random brand I’d never seen and don’t expect to see again!
Try British brands – red trousers are a “thing” in the UK, though definitely more of a posh thing that certain groups get mocked for by others. You can Google it, the red trousers specifically :)
alright joanna i have to ask… in gorgeous little hotels like these, do you suspend your “no elevator” rule? do you check beforehand that there’s stairwell access? so curious, if you’re willing to share!
I always check if there’s stairwell access! my room was on the 6th floor and I was happy to take the stairs :)
nice! your hair looks very french!
Real talk: That toy man has a toy corpse in that toy valise.
100% true.
hahahaha
Grab an icecream at Berthillon on Ile St Louis and walk around that tiny island admiring all the homes and doors. A must do for any book lover is the library Richelieu. And near it is Galerie Vivienne which is so charming to walk around. Just has small shops.
I’m so bummed the ‘what I spotted people wearing’ series in going behind the paywall! It’s always been one of my favorite articles at CoJ, but I can’t afford paying for substuck at the moment.
Hi! We offer complimentary subscriptions every month, just email newsletter@cupofjo.com xoxo
Julie another option that I do when I am sick. I buy one month and read the ‘back issues’ like a magazine
I thought “cashmere bandana” said “cashmere BANANA.” Ha! I was slightly confused when I clicked through to find a woman wearing a bandana. I thought, where’s the banana?! As my daughter would say, “silly, Mommy!”
Same, Katie! 😆 🐐 🍌 😂
cashmere banana would be a good name for a hippie store in the 60s.
Breizh Cafe is my favorite place for a casual dinner in Paris. They serve savory and dessert crepes, along with delicious ciders and wine. Do make a reservation as it’s small. My daughter, then 12, liked it too.
Oh, yes, that place is good! I went there on my last trip to Paris, which was 14 years ago. Glad it’s still there and still delicious.
It’s not a trip to Paris for me without a stop at Shakespeare and Company bookshop. It’s magic.💫
Agreed. Love that place.
what shirts are you wearing in both meal pics? what did you pack to wear on the trip? vacation outfits are always fun
Hi!! In the apple pie one I’m wearing this shirt, it’s slightly oversized and fits so well, and it has a slightly heavier weight so it’s great for travel (doesn’t wrinkle as easily etc): https://go.shopmy.us/p-92402118 And in the dinner one it’s an old shirt from Toast! Xoxo
I’m considering the Tate from Ayr. I love the collar on it. It seems super modern.
COJ readers and staff, I would love any updated recommendations!! I’m going in March for the first time and am so excited. I went through all of the old COJ posts about Paris, but would still love some ideas that maybe I missed! Would love any restaurant recs, unique spots to visit, vintage shopping, etc….thank you so much :) <3
I was there in June. I did go to Mokonuts and ate the best salmon of my life. It’s worth the hype from CupofJo. Another restaurant I truly enjoyed was Les Marches, across the river from the Eiffel Tower on a little side street. Ooh. And eat jambon buerre I went to this little shop in the 3rd. They had about 20 ham choices. There was no seating so I took to a park and ate. I also went to a Hammam after landing. It felt great and helped with any jet lag. I went to an all female one. A few women wore swimsuits. I went naked. Musee de Orsay was fabulous. I also did tons of walking. That was my first trip to Paris.
Oh, and public transit was so easy. I only used rideshare to and from the airport plus my first day after dining at Mokonuts. It started raining. The directions on my phone weren’t working. I was completely lost. I don’t speak French. So I picked up an uber.
I had a couple days in Paris solo many years ago, and loved Musée d’Orsay, walking down the Seine, and people watching in Jardin du Luxembourg
the centre pompidou has Brancusi’s studio if you are into art. It’s so gorgeous, and the museum collection and building is cool too https://www.centrepompidou.fr/en/offre-aux-professionnels/enseignants/dossiers-ressources-sur-lart/constantin-brancusi/brancusis-studio
Hi! I live in Paris and have lots of recs. For dinner, Le Saint Sebastien and Le Comptoir des Petits Champs. I would plan a morning to have coffee & pastries, shop, and stroll along Canal St Martin. Love the Picasso Museum in the Marais, and there’s tons of shopping and restaurants nearby. If you search Substack for Paris, you’ll find lots of updated recommendations lists too. I write one called Crumbs from Abroad, but I also really like Paris by Mouth and Franchement.
Heather Clawson from Habitually Chic has a Paris guide that’s supposed to be amazing!
Seconded on the walking. The train system was wonderful and is really an activity in itself. I also the best time at the Puces de Vanves market for vintage/unexpected finds. Bring some cash with you!
FYI, the Centre Pompidou and Brancusi’s studio are closed for renovations until 2030. (But if you’re into post-modern architecture, it’s worth visiting just to see the outside of the building.)
I just returned from a trip to France and northern Spain, starting off with 3 days in Paris (my third trip in 2 years). This time we went to visit the Dior Museum, and it was fantastic!!
Gail! I’d love to hear your itinerary for Paris :)
I would say that ceiling lamp looks like a very ripe garlic :)
I really enjoyed the Don’t be a tourist in Paris guide by Vanessa Grall. It’s full of great insider tips. If you’re a food lover, the Let’s eat Paris book is fantastic. Both are heavy books though, easier to use for preparation than to lug around.
I’m obsessed with that tiny car. That is all.
Oh do I love the Rodin museum. My favorite of anywhere
I love Paris. There is nothing unique or special about an American woman loving Paris. But I have loved going in all the seasons of my life. Alone. With friends. With my husband. As a family. Recently, my friend was talking about how when we were in Paris that I just spoke for her and told her what to do. Our other friend asked me, “Do you speak French?” I replied, “I do not speak French, but Paris and I definitely understand each other.”
I’m going to Paris in March with my family – any good suggestions for 5th and 8th grade boys (besides the obvious touristy spots)?
Catacombs. Then pick up a picnic nearby and walk over to Jardin de Luxembourg for lunch. Timed tickets for the Catacombs go on sale 7 days out. You have to be “on it” but not to the minute or anything. Much cheaper than buying through a “tour”.
Came here to say the same thing! My kids are 2nd, 8th and 10th grade. So far they want to go to the Eiffel Tower and Jellycat cafe 😅
Hi Lauren, I live here and my girls are 11 and 13. We like the museums in Jardin des Plantes (the paleontology is closed for repairs, and I’d skip the zoo as a visitor, but the others are great. Small and cheap, you can even do 2 in a day w picnic lunch in between). When I was walking around with a friend who was visiting, we stumbled on the plaque at Place de la Concorde identifying where Marie Antoinette was beheaded—she said her sons would love that, ha! My cousin’s son liked visiting the chateau de Vincennes and the Musee de l’armée at Les Invalides. There are some cool VR exhibits at museums from those to time—right now there’s a pretty good (not amazing) one at Musée d’Orsay about the creation of the Statue of Liberty. If you go to the top of Eiffel Tower, get the walk up ticket—cheaper and gets the energy out. Fun to go at night at see the lights sparkle from the top! I have a Substack called This Week in France if you want to check it out…
Hi, Parisian reader with boys too here :) Here are a few ideas which could be fun: Food attend a cooking class, go on a surprise food tour (https://www.salive.paris/) go to a food market (there are some in every neighborhood so pick the most convenient), to the flea market or to the books market (https://www.paris.fr/pages/les-marches-parisiens-2428) eat at the counter at a restaurant with an open kitchen have sushi in a restaurant with a conveyor belt (https://matsuri.fr/en)
Culture go on a street-art themed guided tour (https://www.streetarttourparis.com/public-tours/) visit the Parisian Chinatown, the Japanese neighborhood around rue Sainte-Anne, the Indian neighborhood around Passage Brady, with or without a guide movie night at a nice movie theater (https://www.offi.fr/tendances/cinema/les-plus-belles-salles-de-cinema-de-paris-295.html) go on a guided tour of the Musée du Luxembourg (https://museeduluxembourg.fr/fr/billetterie) and then enjoy the Luxembourg garden (basketball hoops, good crêpes and lovely atmosphere) visit the Atelier des Lumières (https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/fr), the Musée de la Musique in the stunning Jean Nouvel building (https://philharmoniedeparis.fr/fr/musee-de-la-musique), the Fondation Louis Vuitton (https://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/fr/billetterie), the Bourse du Commerce (https://www.pinaultcollection.com/fr/boursedecommerce) and go to the Japanese supermarket nearby (https://irasshai.co/) walk around the Marais, go to the Picasso Museum (https://billetterie.museepicassoparis.fr/content) and eat falafel at the As du Falafel on rue des Rosiers or have lunch at the Marché des enfants rouges
I’m also going in March with 5th and 8th grade boys! It’s their first time, so we are doing all the very touristy things, but I think the thing they might be most excited about is the catacombs. If you’ve never been, highly recommend. It’s creepy and a good break from palaces/museums/churches.
As an American living in Paris, I highly recommend the National Museum of Natural History. It is fantastic for kids!
The Sewer Museum! So cool and interesting – and gross! – perfect combo for our multi-gen group. We also went to a Handball match – perfect version of other-culture-yet-recognizable-sporty-gathering vibe.
I just went with my 12 and 14 year olds last month. They loved the Catacombs.
Download the FlashInvaders app on a phone and have the boys look around for the many (!) street mosaics, it’s a big thing here. They’ll get points, they’ll be fooled by copycat artists, it’s fun. My daughter and her friends have all had it for years and get very excited when they find a new one pop up, even if on the way home from school :) The artist has also done them in other cities as well.
A private Seine cruise could be fun for all! I was there in April and we used this family-owned company: https://cruisesparis.com/ They provided cookies, tea, and other beverages (alcohol and NA) and took a lot of photos for us that they then air dropped, so we could just take in the sights. It was lovely!
We took our kids – ages 11, 11, and 15 to Paris in May. Jelly cat cafe experience was a hit. Walking the 300+ steps up into the basilica of sacre coeur for a 360 view so memorable. Navigating public transit. L’Orangerie a gem and there was a stunning exhibit of Rousseau. Nighttime at the Louvre. Kept art museums to 1.5 hours max. Pain au chocolate every day. The weather was crap but we didn’t mind at all. Paris is lovely and we never get rain where we live.
Parisian here, I will add: – La Villette – Jardin d’acclimatation – Parc Asterix – Aquaboulevard (a little dated but my nephews love it!) Also, a fun thing to do as you walk around is challenge them to find as many of the pixel street art figures as they can — keeps them looking around as you walk the neighborhoods :) (https://www.tresoraparis.fr/articles/le-pixel-art-urbain-a-paris)