A Weekend in Maine
“Do you ever think we could find some woods to walk in?” my outdoorsy 12-year-old asks me, every now and again. As a kid growing up in New York City, Anton appreciates all the skate parks and bagel shops, but he also really craves nature, like in his bones.
So, when school got out, I offered to take him for a weekend in Maine, a place with not only woods but also lakes and rocks and periwinkles that come out of their shells when you hum. We were both really excited.
The first night, we were lucky enough to snag a room at Aragosta, a beautiful small hotel in Deer Isle that Alison had recommended.
The chef-owner, Devin Finigan, is famous for her seasonal tasting menus, but we focused on the breakfast that came with the room, including these Maine blueberry pancakes. I don’t even usually like pancakes and these blew my mind.
We also played a LOT of chess on our little travel board.
After breakfast, we set out to hike up Blue Hill Mountain.
Here’s the summit!
In the afternoon, we explored the charming fishing village of Stonington…
…then joined my friend Julie (of Rudy Jude fame) and her family for dinner at the Burnt Cove Boil.
Basically, a crab gets plonked down in front of you, followed by a corn on the cob, then a lobster, then a classic ice-cream sandwich. Julie and her husband Anthony taught us how to get all the meat out. (Their kids were already pros.)
Afterward, the four boys scrambled around on the rocks, while the adults chatted. It’s always such a treat to hang out with people who live in the place you’re visiting, don’t you think? Julie and Anthony described how they brought their recently hatched chicks into their home to keep them warm, and all the peeping was sooooo loud — and then a cricket got into the house and added to the noise and no one could find it and everyone was going nuts, haha. Very different from city life!
The next day, Anton and I stayed at the lovely Asticou Hotel near Acadia National Park.
We drove to a couple trailheads but they were PACKED — you had to stand in a long line, just to start the hike! Luckily, we found a quieter area and took a long walk around Jordan Pond, playing Would You Rather and Categories along the way. Do you have any favorite travel games?
Finally, we skimmed stones on our last afternoon before heading back to Brooklyn.
Epic travel buddy
What a magical weekend! Not pictured, of course: traffic, grumpy preteen moments, locking our keys in the rental car, etc., but that’s all part of the adventure. :) Thank you, Maine, we love you and hope to come back soon.
Have you been to Maine? Do you live there? What parts do you love? Any pro tips? I’d love to hear. xoxo
P.S. Our Maine trip — and another amazing hotel — when the boys were much younger, and a Maine home with a bedroom looking over water.
Comments
143 commentsI’m from Maine! But full disclosure – I spent my first 18 years there, but haven’t properly lived there in about 20 years. However it is still home and I’ve been lucky to have opportunities to work remotely from time to time, and spend many summer, fall, winter, and spring holidays there :) If Anton is looking for real nature, consider going even further north and hit up Baxter State Park. Mount Katahdin is the highest peak in Maine and the beginning/end of the Appalaichain Trail. It’s a big hike!! but oh so impressive and awe-inspiring. Maine is also home to the most “remote” part of the Appalaichain Trail – the 100 Mile Wilderness. Something for him to work up to ;) In general, as I’m from northern Maine, right on the border with Canada – I’m a huge fan of promoting exploration all throughout the state. Come to Aroostook County – where Connecticut and Rhode Island could fit, landmass wise, but only about 65-70k people live in total. Explore the North Maine Woods, the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, so many wonderful state parks, internationally accredited cross-country and biathlon trails, boating, fishing, hiking, camping, etc. etc. He will be awash with wilderness and nature!! Wonderful small towns, homestyle cooking, and friendly faces :) I love coastal Maine, but the whole state is a gem.
I got married in Maine literally the same weekend you were there, Jo!!! We were married at the summit of Saddleback Mountain, the mountain where I grew up learning to ski. Just got back to our home in California after a whirlwind 2 weeks in New England, and you can only imagine my joy catching up on posts and seeing that you and your boys were experiencing the same Maine beauty at the moment that I was getting married on the top of a Maine mountain. Sending love.
Love this post 🥹
For caryn, Isabel Klee who has the Instagram Simon Sits is getting married this fall at a campground which is being rented for a whole weekend. She currently has been very busy on book tours, moving and taking care of Simon ,her dog who is battling cancer. I feel certain she will have several posts about how they are able to pull this wedding weekend off for their family and friends.
I’ve lived in Maine for over a decade. Went to University here and have lived in many different counties. Currently live in the Midcoast area. Last summer, my husband and young son and I visited Downeast area. It was still peak tourist season in August and it felt so refreshing to go further north away from the crowds. The vibe was calm, peaceful and slow. We stayed in Roques Bluff and walked to the local beach a lot. We did easy day trips to Lubec, Cutler, and Machias. Jasper Beach in Machiasport has smooth stones all along the beach and as the tide goes out, it sounds like the beach is singing. Free to park and never felt busy. It was, for me, exactly what a vacation should feel like. We were there 5 days and it felt like weeks. Time slowed down and we just melted into relaxation and nature (even with a 3 year old!)
As a Mainer who loves visiting Acadia, would recommend avoiding crowds by watching the sunrise from Thunder hole in the morning and then take your pick from the trail heads with plenty of parking! Once you’re on your way back from your hike you’ll notice the crowds trickling in. After all this, make sure to walk through downtown Bar Harbor to find some tasty treats or a lazy brunch.
Love Maine and this looks like an amazing trip. Thank you for sharing, ESPECIALLY the note at the end about all of the things not featured. That’s life, right?
We moved to Maine from Brooklyn about 6 years ago. My mom is a Mainer and my dad is a New Yorker and I love both. We live in the midcoast area and I love giving tips (ask!). For restaurants, Camden has Winona’s and Rockport has Nina June, and they are incredible places. We live down the street from Nina June and go almost every weekend . . . and have met some of our closest friends because the staff there seats people next to us strategically! It’s amazing living in a small town where everyone knows you. We had a baby and the entire neighborhood came to my shower because there hadn’t been a baby in this village in 20 years. He is a lucky little guy! I second the ideas for the Bold Coast, often overlooked. And I have had trouble parking in Acadia, where we go often (except June-Sept!), but never any lines for hikes. Skip Beehive and do Penobscot Mountain (you can park at Jordan Pond).
Maine is so lovely, but as a NYC botanist, I have to jump in and say that Anton doesn’t have to leave the city to find forests!! Believe it or not, New York has destination-worthy nature – rare trees in Inwood Hill Park, Jamaica Bay where horseshoe crabs come ashore each spring, and Pelham Bay Park, our own slice of Maine right here in the Bronx. Most New Yorkers don’t realize that monarch butterflies migrate through our neighborhoods, Piping Plover nest in our parks, and globally rare shrubs still survive here. One of the things I’ve learned from hosting my monthly Wild NYC series on Brian Lehrer is that people are hungry for permission to slow down and notice the natural world around them. If it’s of interest, I’d love to bring that same spirit to write something for CoJ – short seasonal essays about what to notice right now: the wildflowers blooming in unexpected places, the birds passing through, the changing trees, and the small wonders hiding in plain sight. Bonding with nature is such a tonic for our times. More about NYC plants https://www.nycwildflowerweek.org/ And Pelham Bay Park https://substack.com/home/post/p-137895971
Thank you so much Marielle!!!
Thank you Joanna!! Just felt I had to chime in :-)
I don’t live in NYC but would love to see more from Marielle :)
This made my heart swell (and I don’t even live anywhere near NYC!). Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
My husband and I went to Maine 2 years ago with our (then) young dog. We camped in a tent a few nights at the Bar Harbor KOA in a waterfront site and I spent most of my time fishing and only caught tiny little crabs lol. We hiked a LOT (though it was disappointing how crowded some of it was), we tried to see sunrise from Cadillac Mountain but it was too foggy lol, we did a boat tour, met up with one of his old military buddies who lives there and went to L.L.Bean’s HQ. It was such a fun trip!
I grew up NYC in the 1950’s-60’s. I always felt physically and emotionally comfortable and happy in more rural environs. I left NY when i was 22 and have enjoyed living in the mid-west, and New England, in the “country”. I think you’re correct about the feeling being part of you.
Categories reminded me about sharing this story. I have a 17 year old daughter and 13 year old son. My son is doing summer PE at school and yesterday and bunch of kids were playing the game Concentration. Someone picks a category and you take turns yelling out things in that category without hesitation or repetitions. At the end a girl and he were left and she picked the category “make-up products” thinking he would know nothing about it. Well a boy with an older sister knows a hell lot. He won and he was so happy. She was so proud of him.
How sweet!
Mainer here and loving all this Maine positivity! Since Downeast (the coastal region) is getting lots of love in the comments, I’ll shoutout central/western Maine, where I live. :) We don’t have the ocean but lots of pristine lakes, and the beautiful White Mountains. The Bethel area has some lovely places to hike and swim, and is such a cute town with lots of great food. Favorites are Gemini Bakery and Le Mu Eats. For folks wondering about Acadia — it’s a problem. Acadia is the only national park in New England, which I’m guessing is part of why its so popular? It does also have spectacular views, but all the tourists are very damaging to the trails. Maine has plenty of state parks that I think are equally beautiful, some of which have already been shouted out. I’ll also add Wolfs Neck, which has some good family friendly trails and also spots for swimming. And if you go there, you’re only 30 minutes away from one of my favorite bakeries in Bath, Solo Pane e Pasticceria. I highly recommend using Maine Trail Finder, a free online directory of trails including difficulty levels, available services, and accessibility, to plan your hikes and discover less popular spots. Also coming later in the season, like late August/early September, can help. Orrrr you could just move to our beautiful state and enjoy it all year round. :) And yes, I DO have a picture of myself with the Abbe Museum sign — I was very excited when I first saw it!
Just wondering, don’t you ever want to take the boys places like Greece to see the ruins or Egypt for the pyramids, or diving in the tropics? I don’t have children but would want to take them traveling to see the wonders of the world as soon as they were old enough to appreciate it. Full disclosure, am reading Song of Achilles right now and apart from the teenage love story, I’m thinking how lucky those boys were to study in the woods with Chiron, (presumably in Greece? … and the part I just finished reading last night, lol).
yes, I’d love to! that would be amazing, of course. but we typically go to visit family, since we live very far from all our relatives. so we go to california, Michigan, and England to see family. or we visit places within driving distance of Brooklyn, where we live. we feel hugely lucky to be able to do that!
Did you get ice cream in Stonington? That’s a long standing tradition in my family, also Nervous Bellies to check out the sculptures!
yes!!!! we did both!
OMG I’m going to Maine (for the second time. first was to Portland pre-kids) in August! Traveling from Maryland, wish us luck with 2 crazy boys. We are staying in Franklin in this gorgeous house, about 45 min outside of Acadia but these comments are making me NERVOUS to head into the park the second week of August! Do we just stay nearby instead? I’ve heard Tidal Falls Preserve is awesome (and close to us!) maybe my boys (4 and 7) will appreciate that more then traffic or jammed trails!? BUT we are doing the Cadillac morning sunrise complete with Jordans pancakes one day :) Any tips?!?!?!
this sounds incredible!!!
If you are staying in Franklin, there are incredible trails on that side! Acadia will be straight up bazonkers in August (I have spent every summer of my life not far from Franklin). Get the All Trails app and you’ll see all the options! Schoodic Mountain being my fave, you can do a loop that lets you swim in a pond for a refreshing dip afterwards. Also the hikes along Schoodic point, fully ANP but less crowded. I haven’t hiked the Bold Coast but look up those trails as well. For food in Ellsworth, we love Fogtown for pizzas, beer and live music; and Momo’s cheesecake is super fun to check out. Chipman’s Wharf for lobster rolls if don’t mind a bit farther drive north (do not go to Tracey’s no matter what anyone tells you). Flander’s Bay BBQ is legit! And if you are following any of the Graham Platner drama, he is from Sullivan and his mom runs the best restaurant in that area (IMHO), Ironbound. Regardless of the crowds, Maine weather in August should be a dream. Eat your weight in blueberries and enjoy.
PS I don’t have kids so I realize my recs might not be the most kid-friendly! But Schoodic point has some much shorter hikes that I think would be fine for an adventurous 4yo. And Cadillac at sunrise with a reservation definitely will mean emptier roads, and Jordan Pond House (get the popovers too!!) is an institution and worth it! While folks are right to be wary of Bar Harbor in the summer, there’s a new ordinance going into effect this year which will drastically reduce cruise ships in July and August, so hopefully it will be better. I hear amazing things about Diver Ed’s Dive in Theater for kids if they are down for a boat ride that leaves from Bar Harbor. Also a fun stop for kids for amazing blueberry soft serve is Me & Ben’s Dairy Creme in Birch Harbor, on the way home after hitting Schoodic Point.
Megan thank you so so much for the tips! Some of these places I have heard of (Ironbound is on our list) but the others (bbq, ice cream, chipmans) are new to me! Is Mainly BBQ too hyped up? Wheres the better beef !!?! We are doing a “Catch your Dinner” lobster tour in Corea that I hope our kids enjoy! Definitely trying not to overplan our week-long stay but, my type-A-ness is getting the best of me!
Great pointers offered already, and I will offer the idea that taking the ferry from Winter Harbor (I think it’s still running) over to Bar Harbor is a fun (but added cost) way to get to the touristy bit without having to negotiate the crazy traffic. On the Island, there are free shuttles that are hop-on, hop-off if you want to go further afield than downtown Bar Harbor; also, you can drive to Trenton and board a free LLBean-funded shuttle to get to the Island; schedules and routes are laid out on maps and websites. Getting Maine w/o the crazy traffic input. . . I’d second the recommendation for Schoodic Mountain (different than Schoodic Head, part of ANP) as there is a beach and a lovely lake for folks who don’t want to climb the mt or as a reward after climbing! Enjoy, regardless.
I recognized that view in the first shot immediately- the view from my childhood mountain. I, of course, think that part of Maine is particularly special. I’d pick lupines with my mom each spring for the elementary school graduation stage so I associate them with growth and moving on. I have always joked that growing up there, we all internalized the lessons of Miss Rumphius: “ “When I grow up,” I tell her, “I too will go to faraway places and come home to live by the sea.” “That is all very well, little Alice,” says my aunt, “but there is a third thing you must do.” “What is that?” I ask. “You must do something to make the world more beautiful.” “All right,” I say. But I do not know yet what than can be.”
The next time you’re in Maine, I highly recommend taking a short ferry ride out to one of the islands, especially Monhegan! This magical place is a historic artist colony with several art galleries and a small museum,12 miles of stunning hiking trails (one of which leads to a shipwreck!),125 year old lighthouse, brewery, and the cutest seaside inn. It’s one of my favorite places in the world : )
This all looks so dreamy! But also, a line at the trailhead!? I’ve never heard of anything like that, but I’m in the Pacific Northwest where everything is a lot more spread out. I’ve heard that hiking in England can be really crowded, too. I’m so glad you were able to pivot and recover! That would have been really demoralizing for me. I would absolutely love to visit Maine someday, and I really appreciate the tips in the comments for places that are off the beaten path.
oof yes just reading that made me shudder! Glad you found another, quieter option.
Oh that’s funny- I’m also PNW (seattle) and I avoid a bunch of the popular hikes outside of seattle (ie: the ones right off I-90) because they’re so crowded you’re walking in a line up the mountainside!
If anyone spends time or passes through mid-coast in Thomaston/Owls Head/Rockland/Camden area, I highly recommend a stop at Cafe Grazie for amazing food and pastries! https://www.doublegrazie.world/
Just returned from ten days in Maine. Fell really hard in love. We made it to third base for sure. 😜
This is the sweetest! Jo, do you camp at all with the boys? Is it something you did growing up? My city kids live for a couple summer weekend campouts each year! We keep it really simple and comfy. The best! And similar to the tick question asked earlier from another west coaster – can someone tell it to me straight about ticks on the east coast? are they really everywhere all summer? are they as dangerous/scary as we hear? does it keep people from hiking? i’m so curious and also want to be prepared if/when we do some east coast exploration someday, since it is not something we are very wise about living the PNW other than a quick bug spray and body check after campouts (have truly never seen a tick in our region despite hearing that we occasionally have a few).
Hi. In NH here. Yes the ticks are everywhere. Primarily tall grassy areas and the woods. We still go live our life but are mindful of them. After outdoor time we do a tick check. Don’t forget to check in hair, behind ears, under arms, etc. I also have a lint roller that I will Use after on the dogs or clothes and that can get them off.
But did you go to Reny’s?? No trip to Maine is complete w/o a stop there! IYKYK!
RENYS! Love it. Bought my yearly share of Needhams there last week!
I graduated from Limestone High School in Limestone, ME, in 1965 when my dad was stationed at Loring AFB. Ever since then all members of my family, living and deceased, have said it was our best duty station. Just love,love, love Maine.
Were Lupine’s blooming? I want to goi in June to experience it sometime. Miss Rumphius….
yes!!!!! I thought we might be there too early for them, but they were everywhere! here’s a photo:
Sooooo many Lupines last week. Miss Rumphius has been busy.
Miss Rumphius!?! YES! Isn’t it incredible how books from your childhood can become part of who you are and chart the touchstones of your life? “Travel, live by the sea and make the world more beautiful.”
I’m afraid I have bad news. While Joanna’s photo does show Lupines, they’re not the ones Maine is known for. The roadside displays are non-native Bigleaf Lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus), a western species that escaped from people’s gardens and spread widely. Maine’s native lupine is the Wild Lupine (Lupinus perennis). And the distinction matters enormously for wildlife. The Karner blue butterfly, a tiny federally endangered species, depends on Wild Lupine for survival. Its caterpillars are highly specialized and only eat the leaves of Lupinus perennis. (They die on Bigleaf Lupine). As native Lupine populations decline and are replaced by non-native species, the Karner blue die off as well. People may enjoy Bigleaf Lupine’s colorful displays, but we no longer live in a world where we can afford to consider only what people want. Native plants sustain the complex ecological relationships that support insects, birds, and other wildlife. By favoring non-native species over natives, we prioritize our own preferences while neglecting the needs of the countless other species that depend on those native plants for survival. Sorry, but Miss Rumphius is not a heroine. If you’re interested in the ecological case for planting natives, Douglas Tallamy’s work is an excellent place to start. If you’re in NYC and want to know more – https://www.nycwildflowerweek.org/
Anyone else thinking “but we could be the next Bar Harbor!” ?
So good BLE! Learned about Widow’s Bay right here of course :)
I wrote a guidebook called Maine at Play, specifically designed for family trips across the state. I love Stonington and the quieter side of MDI, where you both stayed, but also really enjoy the wild beauty of Lubec – there are so many gorgeous coastal preserves to explore and authentic, local food at farmers markets and farm stands.
Ha, menopause brain! The book title is “The Maine Play Book.”
I just spoke with a dear old college friend yesterday who is from Little Deer Isle in Maine. I was delighted to see that you were staying in her neck of the woods! She grew up there and lives there again now as an adult with her tight-knit extended family. She actually offered me some respite time at her family’s property later this summer. I’ve been dealing with Long Covid for four years now and have had a decline this past year especially. I rely on my husband (and kids) for everything. I can’t bathe currently or walk really or read a book and spend my time mostly lying down. Anyway… it is a LOT for my husband to handle without me being able to help at all with household tasks. He really needs a break from being my caregiver. I can chat with the kids, but even conversations can run my battery down pretty quickly. I am trying not to focus on those kinds of stories, though, and focus on what I can do– not much, but there are glimmers. I will talk more with my friend tomorrow about how accessible her family’s home is (fingers-crossed!) and maybe make a plan for my own time in Maine. I lived there many years ago as an intern and then pastry chef (in Winter Harbor) and fell in love with the landscape and the people. Seeing your post has given me a little lift. I would also be curious to know if Cup of Jo has featured anything about Long Covid at all… it overwhelmingly affects women and especially women who are in their midlife (at least, from what I’ve read). And, it’s not going away… Hooray for Maine and however it serves us.
I don’t know that CoJ will approach that topic specifically, but here is something you might be interested in. You’re not alone! https://www.longcovidsos.org/stories
Hi Alicia – that sounds really difficult. Check out Dr. Leo Galland’s website for the treatment of long Covid – his protocol is avail on his website. So sorry to hear that you are suffering.
I live near Boston about an hour from the Maine border and go frequently. A few favorites: Nubble Light, Goldenrod candy shop (you can watch them make taffy), Holy Donut, taking the mail boat out of Portland–it was one of the coolest experiences ever, the Perkins Cove Book Shop, and Chauncey Creek for lobster rolls.
Wait, you don’t like pancakes?! How can I trust you after this disturbing revelation?
hahaha maybe I just haven’t had the right kind!
I just wanted to say Jo that you’re such a wonderful photographer! You capture such darling candid moments. Like the photo at dinner with your friend looking over at Anton is so sweet. You could have easily posted a picture where she is also looking at the camera but this one is so much better. Glad you had a great trip, thank you for sharing it with us!
I second this comment! CoJ team, I’d love a post on some tips on how to take better candid photo if you have any, especially for when I’m out with my mum friends who treasure a good photo!
Oh yes! We recently did a post on that: https://cupofjo.com/2026/04/30/how-to-take-good-photos-aura-frames-moms/ We also shared this sweet post on how to take better photos of kids :) https://cupofjo.com/2018/05/21/how-to-get-kids-to-smile-in-photos/
Ooh I have an epic tip for Maine: stay at Drift Oceanside Inn in Camden! I was searching for an interesting (yet affordable) place to stay a couple summers ago and came across this adorable spot, a longtime local motel lovingly updated with cool midcentury style by the new owners. It is a true gem! https://www.driftoceansideinn.com/
The other day, my husband and I were walking our dog (we live in NY) and we met a lovely older gentleman and his 14-year-old dog. The man told us he and his dog were about to head up to Maine for a week. I said, “Do you want adopt a couple of middle-aged people (and their dog and kid) and bring them with you?”
My favorite place in the whole world is an island off the coast of Maine (Vinalhaven). I’ve been going there my whole life, and now my husband and kids love it too. I love it so much I have it tattooed on my arm! It’s so beautiful, and peaceful, and cool (literally!). You actually featured the owner of the antiques store in a “week of outfits” post once. Definitely recommend if you have time to take the ferry over–you can rent bikes, hike trails, swim in the quarries, and of course eat lots of lobster. We’re going up in a few weeks and I can’t wait! I want to retire there eventually :)
Oh the Asticou! A decade ago now I was in my senior year of college, sitting through another hard winter in the Midwest, when I read Annie Dillard and decided I needed to be in nature, immediately, so I applied for a job at an inn in Maine! I graduated and took a job at the restaurant in the Asticou, though it was very different then, not yet renovated into the boutique hotel it is now. I lived in the attic, worked 60 hours a week hosting and serving, and learned a LOT about a lot — weddings, nature, New England, J1 visas, and myself. I spent almost 6 months serving popovers and borrowing books from the Northeast Harbor library (incredible!!!) and taking the MDI bus to a hidden pond to swim. And I once served Martha Stewart dessert! Wow these photos really brought me back! That season of work was really transformative, both spiritually, and because I left that summer as a broke, first-gen college student with savings for the first in my life and had enough money to move to Chicago, where I’ve built my life. 💜
Thank you for sharing. There’s something transformative about a summer spent in a kitchen and in a new place. I would read this book!
I loved reading this about your life, sounds like an incredible time
…COJ community summer camp in Maine anyone!?
Yes please!!
I appreciate the little comment on what’s not pictured. Great reminder that posts about trips (yours, mine, everyone’s) usually feature the highlights only. Thanks for that!
1. Never been to Maine, would love to go. 2. As an avid mountain loving adventure girl hiker, I love that more people are discovering the wonders of hiking, and the calming power of nature. 3. AND also, holy yikes, a line at trail head? I’ve never even heard of that?!? I’m just thinking of the strain on everything that that kind of use will have, sadly. Ick. 4. It makes my heart happy that Anton is able to have these experiences (as a very similar kid, one that was just lucky to be born in a place that well accommodates my heart’s desires). 5. Jo, you are just killing it this summer with all the fun! Excited to hear more adventures soon.
I’m going to Maine next month for my 40th birthday (!!!!). Staying in Portland and skipping Acadia this time, but would love any suggestions for hikes near the city, especially near the coast (I’m an ocean dweller at heart, now living inland and missing it a lot). I promise not to tell anyone your secrets :)
Fellow ocean lover here… Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth is a beautiful long beach that is great for a walk, there are some easy walking trails at the southern end of the beach. Mackworth Island State Park is just north of Portland – it has a tiny parking lot, but the trail loops around the small island and offers spots to linger and is lovely. Wolfe’s Neck State Park is about 30 mins north of Portland and has lovely mostly flat seaside trails with some minimal incline if you’re looking for that. The Eastern Prom at the end of the peninsula Portland is on is a large grassy slope with many outdoor recreation activities (playground, tennis court, basketball, boat launch, small beach) and has food trucks every night in the summer – if the weather is nice, this is the place people gravitate too in the afternoon / for an easy outdoor dinner overlooking Casco Bay. #bliss xo
have the best time!! you can’t go wrong IMO – but here are two “greatest hits” spots you should definitely try: the portland head light and the lobster shack at two lights (even if you don’t eat there – although you should – it’s a great place to soak in the view!). I love the more woodsy hikes all over portland too – there’s even a parking lot across from the entrance to the larger portland head light that has a 30ish minute walk through the woods that i love. ENJOY!!! and eat all the good food :)
also one more: wolf’s neck state park! i actually haven’t been yet (it’s more of a drive from portland) but hear amazing things + it’s on the coast. stop by maine beer company for pizza on your way back to town!
Thank you SO much, Candace and Abby! Wolfe’s Neck looks amazing.
I also recommend Wolfe’s Neck State Park. It is really gorgeous and not far from Portland. My other favorite is Bradbury Mountain State Park. It’s a small mountain but there is a gorgeous view from the top. You could make Freeport a day trip from Portland. Have breakfast and drive up to Wolfe’s Neck, then stop in the town of Freeport to do a little shopping and have lunch, then drive over to Bradbury Mountain. Freeport has a lot of cute shops and restaurants. Another option is going to Harpswell, which has a lot of that iconic rocky coastal Maine scenery. The Harpswell Land Trust has many options for short hikes, and there are some great restaurants on the water. Have a great trip, and happy birthday!
I love love Maine … it’s magical in the summer as well as in the fall. But I do find the drive from the NYC area very long! Joanna — I would love to know if you drove all the way, or if you flew / took a train for at least part of the trip. Always looking for better ways to visit there.
Same question! I would also love to hear about the logistics of getting there from the city, especially for a quick weekend getaway.
I grew up in Blue Hill and recognized the summit of our little hill right away! So glad you and Anton got to experience our lovely little corner of our lovely little state.
I grew up in Wellesley, Mass, and we did a lot of camping in New England. Our longest family vacations were at Keoka Beach and Sebago Lake. My parents would drive the four kids up for a week of camping, and then my father would go back home to work, and Mom and the kids would stay at the campground, with Dad coming back on the weekends. We’d always make friends with other kids there, and just spend the day riding bikes around the campground, in and out of the water, having a blast. I remember Mom sitting on a folding chair in the shade reading murder mysteries, but she must’ve been very well organized to pull off a week of meals for all of us with just the small camp store and no vehicle. We had a very basic tent trailer with no hookups. This was in the 60s. :) Fond memories!
Your mom sounds incredible! What amazing childhood memories. <3
Been dreaming of Maine all summer. Not to be this year, maybe next summer?
Stayed in Castine for a long weekend. Highly recommend Pentagoet Inn!
We went to Maine a few years ago just before Memorial Day. Acadia was delightfully not busy, but Bar Harbor was already busy enough that we decided we don’t need to go back. We LOVED Portland, and just the views from the car as we drove. Oh, also Asticou Azalea Garden and Thuya Gardens were lovely. Thuya wasn’t officially open yet for the season, but they kindly let us wander around.
My family has two cottages on a lake in New Hampshire – which I love (fun fact, it is on the same lake as the summer camp the Obama girls used to go to). One summer my parents and I drove from there up to Maine. I can’t remember where we went except for our trip to Kennebunkport. My grandfather collected rocks from all over the world – when I was in HS, I brought him back a rock from Buckingham Palace (actually got a guard to get one for me). I gt stopped in customs on the way back bc of all the rocks in my (very heavy) suitcase that I had gotten for him from everyplace we went. Customs agents didn’t believe that what they were seeing on the screen were really rocks so had to search my suitcase. At any rate, the Bushes have property in Kennebunkport and my grandpa was a republican (he loved Nixon in particular). As noxious as I found the Bush presidencies, I jumped out of the car and dashed onto the tip of their property to get a rock for my grandpa from the Bush home. He was thrilled. Recently, I learned that my uncle, who was a global health researcher and who traveled all over the world, would tell my grandpa that a rock he brought him was from Ethiopia or the Philippines–or wherever he had just traveled for work. But, in actuality, every single rock was just from someplace near their house in Maryland. I can’t believe I risked arrest by getting a rock from the Bush compound AND carried a suitcase full of rocks across Europe and my uncle just gave my grandpa fake international rocks.
ha!
This story!!!! Love it. I too love rocks and my trust would be so broken if your uncle did that to me lol!!
Former NYC resident (and a true city girl) – now retired and living in Maine primarily Camden, the Jewel of the Midcoast, where the Mountains meet the sea. We spend a lot of time in Portland and Deer Isle where our home is located very near to Aragosta. We avoid MDI during tourist season. I would add Tinderhearth Pizza in nearby Brooksville….possibly the best pizza ever created….and this from an Italian girl. It’s a throwback experience with a limited menu, beer/wine, ice cream and cookies, green salad PLUS a scene from the 60s….everyone eating on tables scattered across the rustic garden or in the big barn, kids running loose. Go for the pizza but enjoy the total experience.
I’m saving up for a 50th birthday treat for myself (still several years away) and one thing I really want to do is take a month off work and rent a cottage in Maine. I went to Maine about half my life ago and unfortunately don’t remember a lot of details but I have vague recollections of how beautiful it is. The sad thing for me is that based on our current life, if I spent a month there, my husband couldn’t come with me at all. Should I do it without him? I don’t know. Because of his job he can’t come _anywhere_ with me, not even for a weekend. Do I do something I really want to do? Or do I wait until we’re “retired” which is potentially 20+ years away? Do I do it for 2 weeks rather than a month? That’s a vacation, though, I was picturing more of a sabbatical! Anyway, love this post – definitely keeping my dream alive, Jo!!
Life is too short. I also read somewhere recently (maybe Esther Perel??) that we put impossible standards on our partner to be everything for us. Maybe you can convince a different friend to come for each week or a family member. Do what makes you happy :). Also what’s this crazy job that he can’t leave for a weekend!!!!!
Do it now, for 2 weeks to get a feel for it. And then do it again when husband retires. My husband and I often do separate traveling and then together, and for us it’s really fine. Listening to your own feeling of being really drawn to something is important and Maine is a perfect place to do that. (I live here in the foothills of the White Mts, the “other” Maine)
do it! the month! by yourself!!! life happens to us
Take your sabbatical now. My great aunt did the travel later plan and never got to do it because other obligations kept interfering. Zoom with your husband each day. Not every experience needs to be shared and just because your husband is manacled to your home, you are not.
Just do it. If it’s impossible for your husband to go, take a friend!
Do it! In the grand scheme of things, four weeks are nothing and will pass like a blink. And you’ll come back refreshed, with a renewed sense of yourself and revived appreciation for the other (the later certainly for both of you). (Speaking from experience – I went backpacking for 3 months a few years without my partner of 10 years. It was hard sometimes – more so for him – but sometimes you need to run wild and do what your heart and gut tell you before returning back to your safe harbour.)
Thank you everyone :) thank you for encouraging me and also reminding me that there is more than one way!
Jo, I’m afraid Anton is 13, not 12 😄
Not til July! Xx
Ah, I was so sure his birthday was in May!
This is so wacky! I’m sure Joanna knows how old her boy is ♥️
Ohhh we love Maine and stayed there for 4 days during 2025 spring break. We had Acadia to ourselves and hiked most of the time. Those logging trucks are scary when they drive past but the seafood made it all worthwhile! We also stopped by Stephen King’s house in Bangor, such a vibe! Exciting stuff, thanks for sharing your weekend trip! Made me reminisce about one of the best road trips I’ve had in a while.
Your trip sounds so nice, how beautiful! Your line about the pancakes reminds me of the Curious George book where he helps out with the pancake fundraiser and of course a monkey is great at making pancakes and a girl remarks “I didn’t even like pancakes before!” And that line always makes me laugh so I chuckled when I read your description about how good your pancakes were! Now I want pancakes, sigh.
Oh wow, I was just in Maine with my family this past week, too! We had a similar experience at Acadia. Clearly a beautiful place, but I did not expect such crowds! We asked every person on our Jordan Pond hike where they were fun and tried to “collect” all 50 states. We got pretty close! And it was fun seeing how different people responded to our obvious Midwestern-ness. If anyone reading this is planning a New England trip, our highlights were the Cabbage Island lobster (clam?) bake out of Boothbay Harbor and eating honeycomb ice cream from Super Secret Ice Cream in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.
Two things I missed most when returning to the midwest after a trip to New Hampshire and Maine a few years ago: (1) the fact that any time you wanted ice cream, an ice cream stand was there ready to serve you (2) the fact that cars automatically and politely stop for pedestrians approaching intersections
It’s always a fun surprise to learn that two people you don’t know, but have followed for so long on the internet that you think you know them, are friends! What a treat to see Julie here :) And glad you had a great trip!
Sometimes I worry my two boys (age 6 and 2) are going to get bigger and not want to hang out with me any more and seeing how your boys still go on adventures with you makes me SO happy. Thanks, Jo, for showing us how to have amazing relationships with our BOYS! <3
Just want to chime in, Maj, and reassure you. My son is 30(!) years old, and he is still my best friend!!
My siblings and I are in are 30s and 40s, and we still go on adventures with our folks!
Maine looks so magical! I’ve been wanting to go for awhile especially to Acadia. Waiting at the trailhead is wild to me, but I guess I’ve waited in plenty of lines for museums and city things. Glad you had a fun weekend!
If you can, go in late September. I went at that time a few years ago and though it was busy, it wasn’t lines at trailheads busy. LOL
I love Maine so much. I can’t think of a favorite place because it was all so wonderful. One of my favorite family trips for sure. Any tips for forging connection with teens and preteens? My son is the same age as Anton and I love him to pieces but the truth is we don’t have many shared interests and every conversation these days just feels like a string of sixes and sevens. I felt so deeply in tune with him when he was a little boy but, even though he’s not really pulling away from me, I feel like we’re having a tough time truly connecting these days.
What is he into? I’d ask him, “*Why* do you love x? What do you love about it? Tell me more about that.” And try to be really, genuinely curious. I’d try to join him in it if you can. And I’d give him a few choices of ideas for the two of you to do together and force him to do one of them even if he whines and complains the whole time (like we can go bowling, do an ice cream taste test, or go roller skating).
Your mileage may vary, but I’ve been reading every night with my preteen son, and that’s been a beautiful and connecting time that we both look forward to! Again on the mileage, but I’ve been trying to read more “heartfelt” classics that might engender a little more reflection and spark genuine emotional response – we are currently reading “Because of Winn-Dixie” and I’m struck by what’s brewing inside his growing awareness! Also I hear you on the string of six seven – what the crazy does it even mean???lol
I have 3 boys (no girls), ages 16, 15, and 12 and I had to really accept that “connecting” looks a lot different with my boys than it did for my mom & I (and I’ll be honest that there was a little bit of mourning b/c I always wanted daughters and growing up my mom always said “boys are nice but I’m so lucky to have my daughters”). I feel connected to my boys but it’s a lot more about being a steady presence than it is about “talking.” I take a lot of comfort in the fact that they come to me with the big stuff, but there is not a whole lot of debriefing about their day, or chit chat about what to wear, etc. Just keep showing up in small ways like inviting them to walk the dog with you or join you on errands (they won’t necessarily “open up” but you will be together) and I rely a lot on consistent rituals like family dinner most nights and kissing them good-bye in the mornings. Even though connections looks different than I thought it would, raising boys is a big responsibility and I take a lot of pride that I am raising kind, inclusive men.
It gets harder when they get older – my two kids were/are very different in how they connected: our son is an outgoing talkative person, and we would connect on walks after dinner, or on drives in the car. With my daughter it was more difficult, we tried to connect over our love of nature, photography. I also found brief weekend trips (one overnight, not too far away) or day trips with only me and one child great and we have wonderful memories of them. Kid decided what we would do, and I would accommodate as much as possible. Had an unforgettable weekend with my then 15-year old daughter at a local lighthouse and youth hostel a few years ago, we had deep conversations watching the sunset (and rise) and fun going on a hike to watch the elephant seals. Similarly, I went on a college exploration and hiking weekend to Boulder with my son. It’s lovely to have the 1:1 time without distraction by dad or the other sibling and their needs, and to be able to focus on only one other person …
My son is only 8 so maybe this will change as he gets older, but right now I have much more success connecting through a shared activity than chats. If we go out for dinner or ice cream I always try to bring a game for us to play, otherwise we end up just staring into space!
My first time in Maine was for a high school friend’s wedding! Her family rented out an entire summer camp right beside a lake during the off season, and it was so lovely. Sleeping in bunks with my high school friends, karaoke in the main camp hall, yummy oysters and the hugest lobsters I’d ever seen. It was such a great experience, and I hope to go back to explore more of Maine.
How has no one commented on this?? What a (I’m at a loss for an adjective that’s descriptive enough for how delightful this sounds!) idea for a wedding!
Oh I’m so glad you had some one-on-one time with Anton! Agreed, Maine is magical. Took 2 trips there in recent years and loved Portland, Camden, Bar Harbor. Reminded me of the Cape in a way, the simplicity of vacationing there. Port’s Pizza in Boothbay was wonderful…ate dinner there 3 nights in a row and a guy on a horse literally pulled up to the open dining porch and let everyone periods enormous steed. https://www.portspizzeria.com/
Not sure if it would be in your financial plan, but as a former nature kid myself I have to suggest that Anton might love a sleep away camp! So much opportunity to be in nature, learn about the outdoors and how to experience it safely. Highly recommend!
He went for two weeks to a camp in New Hampshire a couple summers ago and was sooooooo homesick. The letters home were heartbreaking, it makes me tear up thinking about them! But maybe now that he’s older he could try again xoxo I know so many people love camp
There’re nature camps in NYC!!!!!
You should go to Harriman State Park and Sterling Forest. Without traffic it should be a hour 15 from Cobble Hill. Plenty of hiking, canoeing, fishing, and swimming. In certain sections people bring barbecues. I think you can camp. You have a car, but if you didn’t want to drive you can take NJ transit to Sloatsburg.
Wow standing in line to start a hike is a new level of overcrowded that I haven’t experienced! Otherwise looks like an amazing time!
It’s what happened to Acadia during and after the pandemic. Not that the national park was ever “hidden” or a “secret”, but it just got SO much more exposure during those years when people from NYC and Boston couldn’t fly anywhere, it was an amazing place within driving distance. I live right outside Acadia and just don’t go in the summer anymore because of the traffic and crowds. I always recommend visting in May or early November!
Lifelong Mainer over here. If you’re looking for woodsy hikes with far fewer people around, I love Grafton Notch State Park in Newry. The hike to Table Rock is stunning, and you can cool off afterwards in the cool (freezing!) mountain water at Step Falls or Screw Auger Falls. There’s also a roadside pie stand along the way 🥧 Truly the best way to spend a summer day.
Thanks for the rec!
Seconding this! (Reluctantly. Because I don’t want the falls to get crowded or for the pies to sell out more than they already do!!) Makes me happy to see you and Anton up near our neck of the woods, Joanna.
Just had pie from that pie stand last week. It was so good!
Wait, but what about locking the keys in the car? What did you do, how long did you wait, who realized it??? (And frankly I didn’t even think that’s possible anymore with all the smart keys?) I need details! But love the link to the older page ❤️ because, yup.
Haha well, the keys were in my bag, and I put it the drunk and closed the trunk — and somehow the car locked??? I feel like that’s a big glitch in the design since the car was unlocked to let us open the trunk in the first place! So we went into the seafood restaurant next to our parking spot which had a deck on the water. I asked them what we should do, haha, I truly wasn’t sure! And an older woman who worked there said she would call her friends towing company! While we waiting for about 30-40 minutes we sat at the bar on the water and had Cokes and chatted with the waitstaff. It was so fun and I felt like we broke the ice with everyone there :)
I’ve also done it with a rental car- also locked them in the trunk! I was just closing the trunk with my luggage and about to set off on my grand adventure, so was beside myself with the thought of my solo trip being ruined…I was about to call the rental agency or AAA b it then thought I’d google for any possible solutions…turns out the old straightened wire coat hanger slipped down into the door panel still works to open the more basic end models of cars- hooray for booking the cheap economy level car!- and I was on my way with only a 15min delay and ten years off my life, lol.
Wow Jane that’s amazing!
This just happened to me, do not trust the smart keys! I also did not think it was possible with smart keys. My driver side door half-jambed and I could not open it, so I pushed it shut. Keys were on the dash, car locked me out without the beeps. Luckily, we were not far from home and Ubered home to get the spare keys. Lesson learned.
I live in Maine and used to love going to Bar Harbor every year. Now it’s a bit busy for me! Sometimes I brave the traffic, though, because Mount Desert is really lovely. I try to always get to the Abbe Museum. My favorite hiking is the Bold Coast Trail in Cutler, Maine. It’s a journey to get there but it’s worth it! Also in that general area is West Quoddy Head Light near Lubec, ME. It’s such a beautiful lighthouse that sits above the coast at the easternmost point of the United States. There are easy walking trails there, too, all along the coast. And Helen’s Restaurant in Machias. I just love it and now I want blueberry pie.
I skipped Acadia for my first visit to Maine and hiked the Bold Coast instead, and it was soooo beautiful! My friend said it smells like a Yankee Candle and I think she’s right. (This makes me remember that trip was featured on this blog post: https://cupofjo.com/2022/02/15/readers-solo-travel/ :) ) My boyfriend’s parents have a camper van so now we are starting to dream about driving it up there again and giving the park a shot.
You should check out Campgaw in Mahwah NJ. It’s probably 45 minutes from NYC without much traffic. Great hiking paths, rarely very crowded (unless there’s a trail race going on-rare). They have a small ski run that you can hike to the top of through the woods and you get a great view of Manhattan. You can ski and tube in the winter.
Yay! So glad you had a great trip. We live I. Maine (born and raised going back many generations) and just love this state so much. We travel in the winter- summer in Maine is not to be missed! If you ever decide to visit in the fall, check out the mountains of western Maine- absolutely gorgeous!
Well, we missed each other by days. I was staying with family and we took a friend to see Deer Isle, Stonington, Blue Hill and Castine when we weren’t just sitting around staring at the woods. Glad you had fun!
The pic of the mom kissing her baby… so cute
I got misty looking at it!! So beautiful
This makes me so very excited for our 25th anniversary trip to Maine in September! Would anyone have any recommendations for a hotel/b & b in the Bar Harbor area?
What day did you get married? We have our 25th on 9/30!
August 4 – happy anniversary to you!
I want to go back to Maine so badly. You cannot beat Maine blueberries. My grandparents lived in a Swiss chalet-style house in Rangeley that was on a dirt road across the street from a blueberry bush field with a pond in the back yard and a huge weeping willow tree in the front that my sister and I turned into a clubhouse. Their yard was full of deer and chipmunks that ate peanuts out of your hand. We spent summers there picking blueberries for blueberry pancakes and having clam bakes on the beach. Back then (late 70s-early 80s), the Main Street consisted of a post office and a general/hardware store. My grandpa used to drive us into town in his white 1960s Corvier convertible with red interior and a wooden steering wheel. Summers there felt like being a time traveler. He also hosted a nightly happy hour where all the neighbors came over for cocktails. It was such a magical place to visit.