Our Paris Trip: Full Recap
Last week, I went to Paris for a mix of work and pleasure, and the city looked more gorgeous than ever! Here are a few photos, if you’d like to see…
In the past, I’ve mostly visited Paris in the winter, so it was a treat to spend time there in the springtime. The parks exploded with flowers, and babies toddled around in the grass.
A few friends were able to join, too, which was really fun.
We rented a family’s home in the 11th arrondissement, a beautiful neighborhood that feels relaxed and residential.
Guess Who, but make it French!
Each morning started at a café, like Boot Café in the Marais.
How cute are their stackable circus stools?
We stopped for coffee so many times on the trip that it became a running joke. We’d walk a few blocks, get a coffee, walk a few more blocks, then sit down at a café…
Another morning, we ventured to the 7th arrondissement, near the Eiffel Tower and the Rodin Museum.
Morgane’s brown shirt; my striped shirt
For breakfast, I was thrilled to go to the apartment of Morgane Sezalory, Sezane’s founder and creative director, who I’ve known for years. Sitting in her kitchen, we talked about so many things — family, divorce, work, love, aging, kids, nothing felt off the table. She was turning 40 in a few days, so we talked bout the panic that comes before it and the calm that comes after, haha.
She set out a plate of berries, and we were soon joined by her very fluffy cat.
Afterward, feeling inspired, I wandered over to the nearby Sézane store, full of embroidered dresses, wide-leg jeans…
…and these gorgeous shoes!
Other shops we loved were Merci (a three-story concept shop), Bonton (children’s clothes and toys), and Mélodie Graphiques (a stationery store).
Another afternoon, we headed to the David Hockey exhibition at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. He’s 87 years old and still wears his signature round glasses.
We wandered through room after room filled with paintings — I kept walking into a new space and saying “WOW!” out loud without even realizing it. The saturated colors! The English countryside! The thousand-yard stares!
One of my favorite paintings took up an entire wall — above is just a small part — and featured people at an art exhibit. I’m not a huge dog person, but that bulldog stole my heart.
We also had a magical lunch at Mokonuts, which may be the best restaurant in Paris (bold statement, I know!).
Owned by a husband and wife — Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem — the tiny gem is open only for lunch, and the small menu changes daily. We devoured labneh with fluffy pita, crunchy asparagus, grilled squid, and pork atop bursting green peas. [Update from a reader named Morgan: Mokonuts is publishing a cookbook in September!]
It was one of those long leisurely meals where the conversation meandered from parenting preteens to business bookkeeping to whether people talk dirty in bed, haha. Meanwhile, between bites, we all kept exclaiming, “This is the most delicious meal I’ve ever had,” and “Omg is this the best restaurant in Paris? …the world?”
Finally, on our last night, we just stayed home. (Sometimes, while traveling, it’s so nice to do nothing, don’t you think?) We grazed on cheese and olives and chips and chatted with the windows open. Then we watched a couple episodes of The Four Seasons, as one does.
The whole trip felt so good. Although I came back to grumpy boys (“Never leave again!”) and a week of jetlag (“It’s 3 a.m. in Paris right now!”), my heart felt full and buzzy with female friendship and wanderlust. If you’ve been to Paris, or live there, what are your recs? Where do you like to travel most? I’d love to hear.
We’re also doing another Cup of Jo post today about the clothing color I saw everywhere and a Big Salad issue tomorrow about things we spotted people wearing in Paris, so please sign up here, if you’re interested. Thank you so much! xoxo
P.S. Our 2024 Paris trip, and our 2023 Paris trip. Plus, two magical Paris itineraries.
(City photos and Hockney sign by Alison Piepmeyer. Sézane photos by Stella Blackmon. This post is sponsored by Sézane, a brand we have loved and worn for many years. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Cup of Jo.)
Tags: Paris trip, personal
Comments
156 comments“We grazed on cheese … and chatted with the windows open.” This is our life in Paris (and our window/view are just like the one pictured above).
How wonderful! looks like a great time had by all – what a gorgeous apt too…who doesnt love Paris!
A few snap reactions, in no particular order: I think the photo of the square is Place de Vosges and we stayed near there in a tiny pensione the one time I went. Gah! What a lovely time it looks. So glad you did this and a tiny bit jealous. Sezane. I am completely obsessed. Bit above my usual price point so I save up and also stalk it on eBay. Lastly, gonna hit that restaurant. Some day :)
Just back from an anniversary weekend in Paris at the end of March. We had the best time in a favorite city. Many things to recommend…. With Paris friends we did a guided tour of the Musee Carnavalet. Neither of us had been on many trips to the city and it was really special. The museum has just been redone and is full of treasures. We also spent a lovely morning at the Rodin Museum. Thanks to my husband’s love of vacation research we ate like royalty: delicious breakfasts at Maison Plisson and Mokochaya, a gorgeous lunch at Les Enfants du Marche (had a Mokonuts reservations but unfortunately needed to cancel due to plans with friends–next time!), wonderful dinners at Ibrik Kitchen, Chez Soces, Le Servan and Clown Bar. We did tons of walking including the Canal St. Martin and the new paths along the Seine (enter by going under by the Bastille Opera). Fun shopping at the Lafayette food hall, Monoprix, Marche d’Aligre, a cool brocante up near Pere Lachaise, and a new to us Monoprix home store near the department stores that feels like a boutique, as well as the home department at BHV Marais. We stayed at Le Petit Oberkampf in the 11th–charming and a convenient location. It was a magical weekend all around.
Joanne, you look SO good with the wavy hair talking at the kitchen table :)
I was just thinking the exact same thing! Love the more relaxed vibe of it.
awww thank you xoxoxoxoxo
For anyone visiting Paris who may be looking to stay in a hotel, we stayed here last summer and loved the decor, dining, and location: https://www.kimptonsthonoreparis.com/ I really enjoy staying in an Air bnb, especially when it’s a family trip, but have been trying not to rely on it so much for travel after learning the effects on local housing markets. Great post, Joanna.
on trips i love having a fancier meal for lunch and then just noshing for dinner. this parisian version looks A+
BIG MISTAKE missing the Paris Noir Exhibit at the Centre Pompidou. https://www.centrepompidou.fr/en/program/calendar/event/VRo249Y The whole museum is closing for 5 years for renovations when this exhibit’s run is up. I encourage folks to seek out makers and artists of color when traveling (and at home).
Yes I heard it was so amazing!! We only had two free days so weren’t able to make it, sadly. For NYC exhibitions, if anyone is visiting, Amy Sherald has a huge show right now at the Whitney. It’s really incredible.
Hi, your trip looks lovely! Evenings without plans are the best during holidays! I wanted to ask, how is everyone feeling about Airbnb these days? I don’t mean it in a mean way, I have stayed at many Airbnbs myself and generally appreciate the option and could not have afforded some vacations wirhout it. However in cities like Paris, Berlin, Florence…a lot of residents struggle with the concept because it takes away appartments for residents and rent prices go way up. I am always conflicted about this and wanted to ask what your take might be on this?
yes, I’m so conflicted on this too! typically, I’ve tried to look for and stay in Airbnbs that families actually live in and only rent when they go on vacation — versus apartments that are rented out full-time as Airbnbs (and cause housing problems). the one we stayed in during this trip was a family’s apartment, and we’ve stayed in two others like that. here they are, if you’d like recommendations: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/39831643 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17213604 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1168734363453794415
My parents own a small resort that has been operating for almost 60 years, and have guests still coming whose grandparents rented cabins the first year my grandparents opened. It’s a very special place. Recently, Airbnb’s have been popping up around the lake and we have some serious bones to pick… First off, they do not need to follow any of the business/commercial regulations that other resorts do (including septic care, so fingers crossed the owners have a septic system that can keep up to the demands of large groups of people). Also, they lack many amenities that local resorts have so tell their guests to “just go use the boat ramp/parking/internet at the resort down the road”. We cannot compete with a privately owned mansion that does not have commercial costs to worry about. Business is fine for us, but many frustrations for sure. Nevermind the rental issues and lack of housing in town. Anyways, support your local businesses or families that are renting their own home!
Amsterdam resident here. Airbnb is definitely a problem. Less housing for residents, house prices and rents go up, neighbourhood communities disappear… Try to do as Joanna and go for apartments that are only available when residents are away. But even then, it mostly makes rich people (home owners – in Amsterdam you need a big income to be able to buy and renters are not allowed to sublet) richer. Don’t get me wrong, I love staying in apartments too. But it isn’t always the right choice. Thank you for your thoughtful question Annika!
Loved reading your recap!! I went to Paris much too long ago and long to go back. Making it a girls’ trip sounds sublime.
@joanne- do you mind sharing what lipstick/balm were you wearing on this trip?? I’m always on the hunt for an everyday lipstick that is a bump up from my typical swipe of DCT, but less than a full glam red.
yes! I pretty much always wear this: https://cupofjo.com/2023/10/31/my-friend-gemmas-amazing-lipstick-find/
The photo of the open window at the end looks like a painting! I had to look close to see it is a photo. Seriously, you should sell prints. Good to see y’all happy and adventuring.
Jo, would you consider mentioning whether the items you wear/receive are comped? Fashion influencers who link their outfits directly for sales will add “c/o” but I notice that’s not really done here. Legally may not be required because you don’t link to all of them directly with a personal-conversion link, but figured I’d ask. I guess what I’m getting at is about transparency. I like knowing when a blogger/influencer/anyone receives something for free before recommending it to me because, in my view, it totally alters the quality of the opinion (even friends; a good friend is reasonably popular on IG and gets sent brand items occasionally). If someone received a pair of jeans for free and loves them And highly encourages I get them, OK but it’s like, you at least partly like them so much because you didn’t pay $250 for them. If I bought them and laid $250, I’d have different expectations of the quality, experience, etc. because I’m expecting a return on my investment. When things are free, those expectations simply do not exist. Anyway, I mean this as an honest conversation, not trying to attack. Maybe it’s more on my mind than other readers’ and then it becomes simple math/logic to not change anything about current practices. But whether your stay in Paris was comped by Sezane and whether you personally purchase any of their clothes that you wear would set better/more realistic expectations of readers. Curious what Jo and others think about this!
yes, so happy to! my trip wasn’t paid for by Sezane at all, I paid for all my airfare, lodgings, food, taxis, everything. during the trip, Morgane, who I’ve known for years, gave me a Sezane shopping credit as a gift, so I was happy to get the green striped shirt from Sezane that I’m wearing here. but I usually buy Sezane pieces with own money — I really love the brand and have worn them regularly for the past eight years, ever since I found out about them in 2017! xo
Would love to know if you bought the gorgeous shoes and if so — are they comfortable (as in, supportive)?? I adore the look of them but often find these type of cute flats do not work well with my high arches and tendency to foot pain! Thank you! Your trip looks just dreamy and is making me want to gather up some friends and do something similar. I studied in Paris in college two decades ago and oh I love and miss it!!
those shoes were so pretty! my friend (and former colleague) stella blackmon was actually trying them on, but her feet are so small, there wasn’t a size that fit her!
Thanks for your reply, Jo!
These photos are so dreamy! I wish I could wear head-to-toe Sezane. I went to Paris once in my early 20s and just spent a day or two there (it was part of a whirlwind, “sampler platter” tour of Europe). But my memories from those days are still distinct and cherished. I’d love to go back to Paris (and France in general) but I’m nervous about the language barrier. Is it hard to get around/do you feel like a stupid American all the time? Also what do y’all think of going to Paris with a 10-year-old girl? We’re thinking of doing our first international trip next year…maybe London and Paris. :)
Great question. I always wonder this too about the language barrier, but I would love to take my kids!
Paris is great- and honestly I have always found people there to be gracious and kind. My French is terrible but I always learn the basics in a language (for manners). Many many people there speak at least a little English so you will be able to get around. Also, now we have translator apps which makes things easier. We took our kids to Europe for the first time when my daughter was 10 and she loved every minute! It’s good for them to get the “bug” and confidence young:). Take the trains, buses , all of it – you’ll have a blast!
Just go! Take the 10 year old, stroll the streets and parks, eat the macarrons, don’t worry about the language, smile, have fun. You’ll love it!
Any info about place you rent? Thx
yes, it’s linked in the post, thank you!
It looks like a great trip. I’ve noticed lately that sponsored posts are no longer tagged sponsored. It’s not just this post but this one, for example, is tagged ‘travel’ and then at the very end, under all the photo credits, it says that it’s sponsored by Sézane. In the spirit of reader feedback: I preferred when the sponsored posts were clearly tagged as sponsored. It was something I really appreciated about CoJ .
oh! they are actually tagged as sponsored on our end — but I see how it’s not showing up! I’ll try to fix this right away — we have been working on the back end of the site and it’s being wonky right now because of these fixes. thank you so much for flagging this!
That’s great to know – thank you!
Where are your friends (Alison?) brown striped pants from?! Ps the notify me function never works on these posts!
I’ll ask her! and yes we’re working on the comments, taking a little longer than expected — the site is so huge and any small fixes lead to other errors and so on and so forth, the curse of having started a site in 2007!! xoxo
Thank you for responding! I feel so honored🥰 I’ll check back for pants info – I’m loving the bold, striped look lately – and no worries on the notify me thing. I should have known you were aware. PS I attended the big salad event in Seattle and loved it!
She said they’re old Anthropologie! Xo
Looks glorious! The colors in those David Hockney paintings are so swoon. I love Sezane and am always so frustrated when I click on a link and see that they’re not super size inclusive. Do you know if they plan to expand their clothing offerings?
Bonjour from Paris ! I’m always curious to see what and how other people see my city… and guess what Joanna, the last AirBnB you posted here in Le Marais is my neighbour’s haha ! Su funny. I must say i’ve been parisian for over 25 years now and still can’t get enough of it. Especially as our neighbourhood is the best. A sad truth though is it got so expensive we probably won’t be able to stay much longer, as 70 % of the apartments got transformed into AirBnBs and rents not only are sky high, they just don’t exist anymore for long term. A fabulous city quickly becoming an empty décor, somehow. But i’m still loving it anyway. And i still get amazed and enchanted everyday when i see all the beauty… Have a nice stay when you come over here !
So true.
We’re traveling to Paris in September with our will-be 10 month old! Any tips for anywhere fun to go with a little tiny one?
I’m catching the Eurostar THIS MORNING for a weekend in Paris with my best friend to celebrate 10 years of motherhood. So excited! Perfectly timed post!
Celebrating your motherhoodversary is such a lovely idea!!
Motherhoodversary!!! I love that
Where are the black strapped shoes/boots in the pic from? The woman wearing black jeans. They are BEAUTIFUL.
I was wondering the same thing!
Thirding this request. I also would love to know where your friend’s leather jacket is from. I am on the look out for a good one and love to see what other people are wearing!
Oooo catching the Eurostar to Paris with my best friend to celebrate 10 years of motherhood THIS VERY MORNING and so this is perfect timing!
So fun to see what is going on Paris! Thanks for sharing! I visited last Fall and how I miss it so! My favorite was La Galerie Dior! ALL the beautiful dresses, and cute cafe at the top! I went twice during my visit to soak it all in!
Love every hung about this and Joanna you seem so happy x
Oh, meant to say in comment, the original high line is in the 11th. The Promenade Plantee in the 11th. It’s a disused railway above the city now turned into a walkway stretching for kilometres. Beautifully planted, free and a really wonderful leg stretch with superb views over the tops of the buildings. Magic for garden and park loving people watchers!
You’ve just sparked a lovely memory with this comment! I studied in Paris for 6 months and lived in the 12th, off of the Daumesnil stop, and went on many many jogs and long walks along The Promenade Plantee. Thank you for the reminder :)
Snap, I am on a long weekend in Paris now staying in the 11th. We’ve loved this area (6th trio but never stayed here). Had a superb lunch at Jouvence, also trying le reflet and brasserie Rosie; a lovely sit & watch the world go by with drinks in square dauphine near Palais justice and notre dame; can’t wait to see the musee de la chasse (looks quirky) and take in a recital at opera Bastille (opera palais garnier is worth it for the chargall ceilings alone and we did a ballet a few years back for under 30 euros). Like you, have never been in spring and while it’s cooler than expected, still Lovely!!!
The last time I was in Paris was May 2019. May 11-15. My first meal was lunch at mokonuts. It was the best meal I’ve ever had, and we sat next to this lovely couple from LA that had children in their 20s and moved to Paris for a month. It was inspiring. I ordered the entire plate of cookies when I was there btw. They were incredible. I also stayed in the 11th. Boulengerie utopie is amazing.
Looks like you had a blast! It makes my heart happy to see you having a wonderful time ❤️
I hope this means you’re doing a collab with Sezane….🤞🏻🤞🏻
My husband and I went to Mokonuts last summer on your recommendation and had the MOST delightful meal. Every thing we ate was perfection. One of the best meals of my life.
Does that cat have attitude! Maybe that’s why I’m not a cat person. Then read your comment Jo that you aren’t a dog person.
Joanna where are your glasses frames from? I’m looking for new ones and love them.
Who pays for this type of trip? do your friends get to join you for free? genuinely curious
it’s rare to say anything negativo in this space, and woo hoo on the lovely paris trip and hockney exhibit and beautiful shoes, but…you mention the four seasons series. though all the actors and writers have my heart (esp tina fey!!), was it just me or was it just…a bit of a humorless bummer? i felt like i was hanging out with people i know, but those people are 50+ and dissatisfied and hypochondriacs and humorless and otherwise super privileged and…i wish that was all more entertaining but…it was a little grim, right?
We started and didn’t even finish the first episode because we just didn’t care about or like the characters. Felt off compared to all the praise for it.
I didn’t like it either. I’m not sure what happens after the first few episodes, but I’m just not interested in another cis/het white guy’s midlife crisis bs. It makes me sad, because I love Kerri Kenny-Silver and Tina Fey, but yeah, this one didn’t hit for me.
I didn’t like the first episode either but it gets better. I felt like the show started with cliched stereotypes but as it went on, the cliches dissolved and they showed more of the humans underneath. I liked the last two episodes a lot!
I think you have to get past the first episode and stick with it. My partner and I binged the whole thing quickly and really liked it.
OK, this is so random, but your comment about the dog in the painting made me wonder…do you still have that hamster Anton adopted?!? How’s that going?
Did you know, David Hockney paints on his iPad , using an app called Brushes?
I love this post so much! What a wonderful getaway!
Can we please talk about the striped pants of your friend sitting on the bed? I’d love to know where they’re from.
Cup of Jo hive mind–I’m going to Toronto in two weeks! What should I see/do? The only thing I have planned so far is a bike tour to the Toronto Islands. I love all things outdoors/parks and finding gluten free treats wherever I travel.
Hi Alexandra, I’m from Toronto and hope you have a wonderful time! There is so much beauty in the city despite its many problems. What area will you be staying in? If you’re staying in a busy downtown area, I’d highly recommend venturing a bit off the beaten path to find some calm. For this, I’d suggest a lot of neighbourhood walks. Grab a coffee at Zaza on St. Clair West and then make your way over to Wychwood Park private roads and grounds (even if it says this you can definitely still walk there. It’s like a slice of the english countryside in toronto and if I ever won the lottery I’d want to live right there). Another favourite spot in the city is for coffee either in or to go at Bar Centrale in Summerhill. I love walking around the neighbourhood (make sure to go off the main street to oogle at the beautiful houses). And while this may seem weird, the Mt. Pleasant Cemetery is where you’ll find a lot of walkers and runners. We also have a great trail called the Belt Line. One other really great spot for walking is just at Yonge and Lawrence there’s a lovely park – walk past the tennis court and the lawn croquet (I think that’s what it is?) and keep walking on that path for as long as you have the energy. You’ll see so many cute dogs there, there’s an off-leash area at some point). I also love to walk in the Republic of Rathnelly. There’s a lot of gluten free places in the city and some recs can be found here: https://gffmag.com/gluten-free-toronto-travel-guide/ . We also have a number of lovely farmer’s markets but it’s best to go early and you can find gluten free prepared food at a number of them (Brickworks on Saturday a.m, The Stop/Wychwood Farmer’s market on Saturday a.m, Dufferin Grove on Thursday afternoon). If I think of anything else, I’ll come back here.
You must go to Kensington Market and Chinatown! Bunners (in Kensington) is a gluten free bakery but I am sure there are more. Have fun!
Wow thank you so much, this is so helpful! I’m staying in Trinity-Bellwoods, near the border with Kensington. Much gratitude for the recs!
Another Torontonian! Trinity Bellwoods is a great park and also has its own lovely farmers market, and so much good food in that neighbourhood, Almond Butterfly is a gluten free bakery/restaurant nearby. Ossington was voted one of the coolest streets in the world or something and is a treasure trove of amazing restaurants, we also like Comedy Bar for an evening activity! High Park is also massive with lots of beautiful trails, gardens, and a small (free) zoo. The boardwalk at the Harbourfront is a lovely walk by the water when the weather is nice, we love grabbing food or a drink on the patio at Amsterdam Brewhouse (so so food but great atmosphere/water views) and walking all the way to the Toronto Music Garden. If you feel like venturing a little out of the way, Woodbine Beach is really nice for a walk or bike ride and usually full of locals, if you’re biking you can combine it with Tommy Thomson Park. Have so much fun!
Also from Toronto! I’d also suggest grabbing a citibike and heading out along th Martin Goodman Trail along the shore of Lake Ontario to the amazing west end of the city to explore the Western Beaches, High Park, Roncesvalles and the Junction. So many good cafes, restos, small shops and green spaces. Don’t sleep on the west end!
Here to represent Toronto’s east side a bit more : ) Riverdale Park East has an iconic sunset viewing spot, St Lawrence Market if you don’t get tired of markets, Scarborough Bluffs for park/beach/cliffs in one. Someone also already mentioned Brickworks for their market, but there are great hiking trails around there and around the Don Valley in general as well. Tommy Thompson Park (aka Leslie Street Spit) is an interesting urban park, great with a bike. Enjoy!
We just got back from Paris a few days ago. Highlights were definitely the Hockney exhibit and Monet’s waterlilies. Wowzers! Also, I highly recommend La Bourse et La Vie in the 2nd for the best steak frites in the Universe!
Trips with my girlfriends fill my heart and cup in the deepest sense. Family trips are good/great/disastrous at times but a trip with your friend soul mates?! You are *choosing* to spend your limited and precious time together. What is better than that. A heart can swoon for friendship just as profoundly as it does for a romantic partner and family.
This post came at the perfect time. After two years of infertility (miscarriage and failed IUI/IVF treatments), multiple family members passing away in the last two weeks, and general daily anxiety about the US government, I cannot wait to get to London and Paris with my husband at the end of this month! These comments have yielded many additions to my google map; thank you Joanna and everyone who has commented! We are staying in the 11th as well. Can’t wait for our trip.
I have a recurring nightmare that I go to Paris, and then a few hours before I am due to leave I realise that I have not been to the jewish quarter for falafel, so I run (like sprinting) around the labyrinth that is the jewish quarter, desperately trying to get one last falafel roll in! They are THAT good! YUM. I adore Paris – my husband’s family own an apartment in Montmartre, so luckily I have been able to spare more time there than would otherwise be possible. It’s such a beautiful city – I love the Saint Chapelle, those stained glass windows, I love taking the train to Ecouen, where the Renaissance Museum is an hour out, the Rodin museum is amazing with its gardens… and my favourite foodie thing is the cafe gourmand in a cafe – you get all these tiny bite size tastes of desserts with a shot of coffee, and I feel that lends itself to a glass of wine as well. Paris is just so lovely, and the gardens are delightful – I do not speak French which I suspect is a big part of why I love it so much. I LOVE not being able to understand the chatter around me, my mind finds it so peaceful. It might annoy my husband who has to do all the interacting… I’m trying to coordinate Christmas in Paris this year if we can afford it – it’s a long flight from Australia. The sad of winter isn’t really ideal, but cities are nice in winter, if not so much visiting the countryside. Being Australian I have no idea what to do if it snows, I don’t even own a proper coat. Thank you for sharing these lovely pictures Jo.
I would LOVE to see a Hockney exhibit while he is alive–I love his work so much. Sounds like this was a great trip for you ladies–love the shoes from above pic and YES those shoes looked fabulous.
He is one of my favorite artists and I am obsessively checking flights because this is once in a lifetime, and the exhibit ends in August.
Long time reader, first time commenter – what a lovely trip! Paris in spring is hard to beat. I hope you got those amazing shoes :) It brought to mind a question, or a potential topic for a future post: when have others felt that traveling (especially internationally) with children gets easier/worth it? Recognizing that your children weren’t with you on this trip, and they’re a bit older now too, seeing these pictures makes me wistful for a time when my husband and I could just ~go~ and didn’t have a 2.5yo and 4mo in tow! Most things feel pretty hard right now at these ages, but big travel with multiple kids is one area we’ve been especially nervous in. Any advice/encouragement/light-at-end-of-tunnels?!
Oh my gosh, YES! Our kids are only 2.5 and 4.5 and are very frequent fliers (both short and long-haul) and every trip is easier than the last. We just did Vancouver to Auckland and were pinching ourselves at how relatively simple it was, especially now that we are through with diapers and strollers. The day we can drop car seats from the menu of logistics, I will celebrate.
Oh gosh. We felt so much pressure from people who are all like, “just go!” But the reality – especially with littles – is they have nap schedules, and diapers, and gear. All of the gear. And the other reality is that I’m Type A, so the go-with-the-flow mentality just isn’t happening. We started with a few local road trips (like 2-3 hours in the car) when our daughter was an infant, and went to familiar places so we had less of a mental load of where to go/what to do. We didn’t fly with her until she was about 3, and even then it was just a 2.5 hour flight. We dedicated our holiday card that year of photos of her melting down at every turn on that trip, INCLUDING slathering sunscreen all over her body (and the floor) prior to going to the airport. Reader, we were headed to Seattle. We kept going with the shorter flights and found our groove, though. One of my favorite pro tips for flying is to pack your own car seat, which you can check for free. You can buy a bag to put it in, then stuff the rest of the bag with diapers, stuffies, etc. Above all, do what you can, with what you have, where you are. 😎
I say when the youngest is five. Doesn’t mean you can’t travel before then, but that’s when it really feels like the travel starts to feel smooth. It will still be different than two adults, but not nearly as challenging as working around nap times and staying within ten seconds of a restroom for a newly potty-trained kiddo. Get rental homes instead of hotel rooms. Plot out playgrounds, pools, and libraries. Pack food. Skip the antique stores, shorten your museum time. Realize how many exciting things there are to see near-ish to home when you’re experiencing them through the eyes of your toddler or preschooler. When they are ~7 and 10, it will be fun, and it will just keep getting more fun as they get older. With teenagers, it mostly does feel like we can just ~go~. It’s cliche, but it will be here before you know it. Enjoy the gentle adventures you have together now. Matching the pace of your family where they are make for smoother days and beautiful memories.
We call ages 6-13 the Golden Years because kids are easy to transport, easy to feed, and want to be with you. Scheduling family vacations after 14 is harder than I thought it would be (sports, jobs, significant others, fomo). I have a zillion tips about traveling with kids but the best one for littles (I know I’ve written this in the comments section before) is Tic Tac Time. When everyone is starting to lose it, grab a box of orange Tic Tacs from your bag, rattle it, sing “Tic Tac Time!” and dispense 2-3 to each person, including adults. It is a truly magical reset button. Repeat as often as needed!
I know that feeling so well! Last year we took our 5 and 7 year old to Austin for our first time visiting a new spot (not family or friends). Feel like it was good to try things out there. This year we did London for spring break (now 6 and 8 year olds) and it was so so so wonderful. Such a treat to see the city through kids eyes and the double decker city bus was the best entertainment/built in moment of relaxation that we could have asked for!
My husband and I travelled a lot with our kids when they were little and when things were tough or challenging we would laugh and say “It will never be this hard again” – as in, next time they will be a little bit older and a little bit more used to it. Also try to remeber that the flights and travel days, which are the hardest part, are finite and simply a means to an end. It’s so rewarding and so much fun! If you can afford to and have the time, I would say go for it.
Hang in there, it happens eventually!! A friend of mine said years ago that you shouldn’t call trips with little kids “vacation;” there should be some other word. ;) Coincidentally we just took our kids ages 12 and 15 to Paris for the first time recently. We deliberately waited until they were old enough to enjoy things like lots of walking, appreciating monuments and museums, eating out all the time. It was worth the wait! But we did travel internationally earlier with them, but to destinations involving more small cute towns, beaches, hiking…
We haven’t done much travel with kids, but have found that traveling without kids really depends on your childcare/family situation. We’ve been fortunate enough to be able to leave kids as young as 17 months for 5 nights because grandparents are in great physical shape, are retired and are willing to take the kids. If the situation were different, we might have had to wait until the kids were more capable.
Oh such a good question. My kids are 14 & 12 and have been travelling internationally since they were babies. We’re in Australia so travel anywhere overseas is at least an 8 hr flight. It hasn’t always been easy but definitely worth it as I see my kids now so comfortable in different cultures and pretty adaptable to whatever life throws up. When they were little we always planned our trips so that everyone got a bit of time to do their things. I always need half days or some whole days completely solo and swapping parenting responsibilities with my partner. We’d always hire airbnbs and schedule plenty of chill time like just hanging out like local families at the park balanced against busy days doing touristy stuff. You’re definitely in the harder years of parenting with little ones but I promise it does get easier! On our most recent trips to Japan and Malaysia our kids have even spent some time exploring just the two of them, navigating the metro, finding a fun toy store or the local convenience store! It’s pretty cool to see this confidence and love of exploring the world.
It absolutely gets so much easier and more fun! I (and, to an even greater degree, my husband) are somewhat anxious travelers. We like to travel, but we’re decidedly not chill about it. Even when we were young and childfree, we weren’t the types to just get up and go (although I very much wish I WAS that kind of traveler). Despite all that, traveling with kids got actually fun when our youngest hit 5yo. The logistics get easier, and it felt like we could enjoy discovering new things together as a family. I know a lot of families start even younger, so if you’re a more laid-back traveler you may feel ready to venture out even sooner!
I know many people travel with younger children all over the place. We had taken our three kids on flights in the continental US but we first went abroad this summer when we took our 10, 8, and 4 year old kids to England. Our youngest was fully potty trained so no diaper bag. We did 9 days in various hotels and rentals and everyone did great!
You’re not incorrect! Traveling with toddlers is very tough. I found that the golden age of international travel with children was elementary school, especially around 3-6 grade, give or take. They are a bit older and can manage the difficulties of travel better, especially the time change. While they were very young, we’d do domestic and Hawaii vacations as a sort of a training ground. Even though I’m not a lover of cruises, I admit that an international cruise was also a good trial because they had familar food and a consistent home base. Now my kids are well versed international travelers and are old enough to go with their friends. They travel more than my husband and I do! Speaking of, I need to fix that!
Hi! I have two kids and we have always traveled with them— Brazil (my husband’s home country), Europe, and Costa Rica have been our farther trips. I feel that 5 and 7 was really when we turned a corner and it got more enjoyable. They are 6 and 8 now, and our most recent Costa Rica spring break trip was our best ever! I will say that nature based trips have been the best for us, all the kids really care about is being outside and near the water. When we plan for that, we all have a great time! We did several European cities last year and while it was fun, it also made us decide to postpone some other city-centered trips we’d love to do for when they are a little older. I’m happy to say that my plan to turn my kids into enthusiastic travelers seems to have officially worked at this point! Just plan for “parenting in different locations,” and you’ll have a great time!
It varies. Babies go everywhere but you can be a bit tied to staying in at night etc. Same with toddlers, which I think is the most tiring stage, though we travelled abroad with ours at that age. Key is organisation. I’d say 8-12 are the best years – can stay up to eat at night, happy to eat ice creams on a beach, play in the sea, explore interesting places, easy on planes. Teens can be a mixed bag – can be sulky, uncooperative, smart-arse when not being delightful. On the whole, it’s best to just plan and do it. Or you miss a lot.
Honestly, I think it stays hard – we do it for the experiences and the memories and so on, but at the time, each trip with the kids has felt like hard work. If you can get away for 2 or 3 nights without your kids once a year this is huge. I do think some families / kids are easier going than others and maybe this isn’t true for them, but I also think it’s OK to admit holidays aren’t easy for everyone.
Like almost everything in the parentng space, there is no right answer and it depends on the child. We just took our 8yo and 11yo to New York for a week. On paper they are the recipe for success: interested in people and places, curious eaters, relatively fit and strong. This didn’t stop my 8yo flinging herself to the ground in Central Park shouting THIS IS A WALKING HOLIDAY MUM YOU LIED THIS IS LIKE MOUNTAINS
Oh gosh, thank you all SO MUCH! This is helpful on so many dimensions. With just one kid domestic travel felt very doable, but now with a second baby – who is currently contact-napping on me, haha – it feels intimidating. Not to mention travel just us two adults! Like most things with kids, seems like a common theme is building up to what your family can handle & enjoy, and being quick to adapt. And keeping your cool along the way ;)
We traveled with our six week old from Austin to New Hampshire to visit my grandma for Christmas because it may well be her last Christmas and we’ve been waiting years for this baby. It was terrifying for us (cold and flu season) but he slept the entire time. Then we flew at 2 months old to North Carolina. Also super easy. We’re getting crazy now and taking him at 10 months to Paris and Munich so we can save $1500 on a plane ticket while he’s still a lap child. It may be hard but we’re optimistic!
My daughter just had her confirmation and we’re giving her a trip to Paris (er live in Scandinavia so it’s not that far), as that is something she’s been dreaming of for years. Any recommendations for traveling to Paris with a fourteen/fifteen-year old? Haven’t set the dates yet but I’m thinking fall or spring… She’d like to go asap :)
This looks like such a wonderful trip, and the post comes at the perfect time as I’m set to take my two daughters (11 & 13) to Paris at the end of the month for our first real girls trip (visiting family doesn’t count!). We’ve found a lovely place to stay but I would be keen to hear of any recommendations (other than the basic landmarks etc) of where might be interesting for these ages (a love of art, dance, and croissants is our foundation which will serve us well, I reckon). Thanks so much!
Hi! Our family was in Paris for the winter break and the highlight for our kids was taking a croissant making class! I booked it through Maison Fleuret and it was such a hit! They were great with our 6 and 10 year old, although they were the only kids in the class. They also loved the Ferris wheel in the center of Paris—the line moves quickly and had fantastic views of the city. If I could do it again, I also would have gotten tickets for my budding fashionista and I to go to the Gallerie Dior. Bon Voyage!
Musee D’Orsay for the Degas paintings (and occasional sculptures) for your dancers
Can I come? 😘
I just got back from Paris last month with my 11 & 13 year old and they loved looking for the space invaders throughout the city. It made wandering around so much fun for them. http://atlasobscura.com/places/paris-space-invaders
Lovely suggestions; thanks all! Sarah if you can get yourself here you are very welcome to join;)
😍 What are the beautiful shoes y’all are wearing???
Co Sign! Those loafers look really comfy!!!!
I did some sleuthing and I think the brown snakeskin loafers with tassels are from Caron Callahan, Vidal is the style but sadly sold out? i’m going to be hoping a pair turn up on resale! Jo please let us know if they are a different brand!
This looks like an amazing trip! I like to travel everywhere which makes it so hard to decide where to go! We don’t have a ton of vacation time this summer, but I am currently trying to pick a place for maybe a 5 day trip. I have a very active 9 year old son. I’m thinking the Azores, or London, or Turks and Caicos? I know those are very different places!! Any recs would be welcome!!
London over T&C for sure with a kid! Not much to do in T&C other than eat and relax on the beach. London has culture, museums, The Eye, James Bond speedboats, etc. We went with my nieces around that age last summer and all had a blast. I think they would have been bored in T&C (more of a romantic couples place IMO!)
Paris is a magical city! My favorite though? South of France. Marseille, Cassis, Nice….i mean just the entire Côte d’Azur is breathtakingly beautiful. Also fun fact….the animosity between the North and South is no joke…especially for such a small country!
Joanna, your trip sounds wonderful! Also… my 7-year old son came home from school today and started painting (?!). It’s very unlike him haha, he rarely draws or paints. But he had just had an art class about David Hockney and apparently felt really inspired. I wanted to look up if there’s an exhibition close by and now I see it mentioned here! Paris is only a 3 hour train ride for us 🤩
oh my gosh, I love that!
Oh I hope you get a chance to go. I first saw his works ( I/m an artist and worked for museums) in California. I wasn’t drawn to him until I saw them there. I love that he can capture both California and England so well. As a kid, I can see the appeal: big shapes, saturated colors, relatable people and objects. His work is more complex than that of course but also such a great entry point into a painting. Like an invitation to wander onto a set or into a scene somewhere. I hope you get to go and that you all enjoy!
I love Paris and have both lived there and been there as a tourist too many times to count. I like to go in November when the crowds have thinned out and the weather is still cool enough to just need a jean jacket. I always visit St. Sulpice, Eglise St-Germain-Des-Pres, and Notre Dame, which I can’t wait to see since it’s been renovated. If you like to look at homes, I highly recommend Nissim de Camondo in the 8th, which is an old mansion filled with beautiful art and furniture. On a sunny day, a visit to La Sainte Chappelle is gorgeous. It’s a tiny little gothic cathedral inside the Palais de Justice and the second story is all stained glass windows. Behind the Palais de Justice lies Place Dauphine, which is the most Parisian place on the planet – it’s where the last scene of Me Before You was filmed, with her sitting in a cafe reading Will’s letter and speaking French to the waiter. It’s lined with cafes and there are always people playing pétanque on the green. Paris is like NYC, you can never run out of new things to discover and do!
What a lovely time in Paris!!! I’ve spent a lot of time there and this looks just dreamy. I love Place des Vosges. How was the weather? The food looks amazing. The Paris vibes are real and I’d like to inject it straight into my veins.
Hello Jo, you’re very lucky to have such great friends who actually made time to go together!!! That’s amazing! Your hair looks lovely 😍! I have a question for you and the readers, I’m looking for a reasonably priced, cleanly place to stay in Paris where I can cook all/ most of my meals. This is because of health issues so can’t be helped. I’ll ever so grateful for any leads. Thank you in advance. PS: If it’s ok to ask, where do you usually shop at when you’re in Paris?
yes of course!! do you have an area you prefer? I like staying in the marais or the 11th arrondissement, which are cool areas with lots of shops and restaurants; OR across the river in the 6th, a neighborhood that feels classic and elegant. when I look on Airbnb, my steps are: I put in my dates, then do the filters for number of bedrooms and my price range, and then look at the map to see where I’d like to be. here are a few nice Airbnbs, of course it depends on your dates, too! marais: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/915000981780210372 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50235515 https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/53551394 the 6th/7th: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/945336335268292976 near the Louvre: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1247603423739464451 hope this helps get you started! xoxo Joanna
omg such a dream to just wander around Paris and stop at a coffee shop every few blocks. I need this type of trip in my life!! :) Alos why does that simple plate of berries look so elegant and just sublime. YUM!
Paris! I was there last May and the week after we got back I found out I was pregnant with our daughter. Now I can’t wait to take her to my favorite city!
Went to Paris in January and it was a DREAM! Weather was not bad, the sales were in full force, no tourists, and the people watching was perfection. Went to Mokonuts at CoJ’s rec and it did not disappoint! However, DO NOT BE LATE. They serve on such a tight schedule that even though I was just a few minutes late they made us wait until the next start time which felt a bit harsh but also. . .totally makes sense. They also gave me the wrong entree but when I was breezy about it they gave me a glass of wine on the house (and of course both were delish!). Would definitely return.
I love to travel. However, this summer we will be traveling to a place I am not entirely excited to go – Door County, Wisconsin. I have never been. My mother in law is in very recent, very poor health. As a last wish of sorts, she has requested that the whole crew spend a week there. Door County is where my husband and his sister spent many a summer vacations. To my husband’s credit, he has booked a very lovely VRBO on the water but… My question is, any recommendations? There must be someone who reads Cup of Jo that has ventured to Door County. Please and thank you! :)
I up in the Midwest and Door County was THE place to go for a lovely vacation… in fact, in some circles, it still is. Don’t. worry, you’ll have a gorgeous relaxing time!
Door County, WI is LOVELY! Drink lots of Brandy old-fashioneds (more of a mixed drink, served tall – sweet (7up) or sour (sour mix). Get a Friday fish fry at a supper club. Eat lots of cheese curds (fresh and deep-fried!) Get a bloody mary – served any time of day, almost always with a little side car of beer. The local wine is generally pretty awful and sweet, haha, so skip that or stop at a liquor store. It is a fancier, vacation version of quintessential Midwest America, please don’t knock it ’til you try it :) (Think Cape Cod, but cheaper and with funny accents!) Here are some restaurant recs, although they might be a little outdated: Egg Harbor: Casey’s, Carrington’s, Mezzanine’s, Burtons on the Bay/Green. Fish Creek: Pelletier’s, Bayside Tavern, Loft, Julie’s Ephraim: Chef’s Hat, Old Post Office, Prince of Pierogi, Wilson’s, Sip, Summer Kitchen Sister Bay: Northern Grill, Husby’s, Al’s, Chop, Lure, Boathouse Ellison Bay: Mink River Basin. Bailey’s Harbor area: PC Junction, Cornerstone, Coyote Roadhouse, Island Fever Rum Bar.
Hi Mandy–I have never been, but I once had a wonderful vacation right across the lake in Leelanau County, and it was so beautiful! I hope Door County is a nice surprise, and also sending my best wishes for your MIL’s health.
I hope you find someone who knows a little more about Door County, but I went once and we camped in Peninsula State Park when our son was little, about 10 years ago. I don’t have any recent recommendations but I know a lot of people go in the summer to relax and connect with family. it is an area known for cherries, so get a slice of pie if you can!
That sounds like a really special trip. I’m sorry your MIL is in poor health but that’s wonderful you’re getting to spend a week together. I follow a girl on Instagram who is a baker at an Inn in Door County. Maybe you can stop by the inn for some pastries or a meal. https://www.instagram.com/innkeepercaroline/ https://www.whitegullinn.com/
Door county is my happy place and I am so jealous you get to go! i am sorry about the circumstances with your MIL. Hugs! Here are my favorite places: Coffee: Blue Horse Cafe, Fish Creek Lunch: Hippie Bowl at Grasse’s Grill, Sister Bay Pizza: Wild Tomato, I like the Sister Bay location because they have gorgeous flowers planted out front! seriously stunning, and that area is fun to walk around. I personally love to hit up a few thrift shops, my favorite being Bargains Unlimited, also in Sister Bay. Hiking in Peninsula State Park, Walk across the rocks to Cana Island Lighthouse and take a tour! Enjoy the local, homey feeling! a you’re going to LOVE it! Oh and if you’re crafty and want a fun outing Hands On Art Studio has something unique and craft for everyone.
Door County is totally charming! Tons of tiny towns and lots of natural beauty, so go hiking in Peninsula State Park or Door Bluff headlands. Take the ferry to Washington Island or Rock Island. See the goats at Al Johnson’s and eat lingonberry pancakes.
Hi Mandy, I am sorry your mother-in-law is in poor health. Door County is a BEAUTIFUL place to visit! If you are there mid-July through mid-August, I recommend cherry picking. (Earlier in the season, the cherry blossoms are gorgeous!) My family’s favorite restaurant is Al Johnson’s Swedish restaurant, located in Sister Bay. The food is delicious, and they also have goats that eat grass on the restaurant’s roof! There are also many breweries (with good food and outdoor spaces) as well as lots of opportunities for hiking, boating, and shopping.
The first thing you need to do is get reservations for a fish boil. Depending on where you are staying, my favorites are the Old Post Office in Ephraim or White Gull Inn in Fish Creek. Depending on the time of year, you can hang with baby goats at The Farm. If you are there with kids, feeding the animals at Plum Loco is also fun. My fave restaurants are Grasse’s, Wild Tomato, and don’t skip the best breakfast, worth the long lines, at Good Eggs in Ephraim. Plenty of beautiful hiking, fun kayaking in Peninsula State Park, a ferry ride to Washington Island, cherry picking (or just eating!) . . . That was a favorite chill vacation spot when I lived in Chicago, and I miss it! Enjoy!
After all these comments I now want to check out Door County, WI
This Wisconsinite is getting DC t-shirts made ASAP with “Cape Cod, but cheaper and with funny accents.” I can’t even argue.
I live in Door County. My general tip if you like the outdoors is to hit up the Door County Land Trust properties in the summer instead of the state parks. Fewer people, easily navigable, and still beautiful!
Oh my goodness! You guys are amazing. Thank you so much for all the recommendations. I actually have tears… No clue why but happy tears. It sounds quite lovely. :)
In the morning, sit by the water and chat with your family and sip your coffee. Then hike in the woods, or paddle a river or swim in the lake. Catch some fish and throw them back. Grill a big dinner or go to a fish fry. Then make brandy old fashioneds (sweet), and have a bonfire. Catch fireflies and make s’mores. Wisco in summer is heaven. Enjoy!
Dang, this low-key has me wanting to visit Door County.
I’m so curious how your trip to Door County went! If you’ve already gone I’d love to hear!
You are absolutely glowing, Jo! Friendship and joy suit you!
Our son took to French language from 7th grade on. His first trip was thru a private school, followed by a full year study abroad in college, including attending Ensait. As a textile engineer, he has returned to France a few times a year for work and has maintained a relationship with his host family in Paris and school in Roubaix. His experiences opened our own ability to navigate quicker. My husband and I will join our son in Sept. Empty suitcase at the ready! I envy/admire how at ease you travel. Your trip sounds so fun and relaxing. Great pics!
“buzzy with female friendship and wanderlust” – two of the best feelings!
Did you get those gorgeous shoes???
I didn’t but now I’m regretting it!
I recently saw in Mokonuts’ Instagram comments section that they’re putting out a cookbook in September, so I immediately pre-ordered. It’s bec of THE COOKIES. IYKYK.
oh my gosh, going to pre-order rn!!!! thanks for the head’s up!
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019534-mokonuts-rye-cranberry-chocolate-chunk-cookies Until the Sept release date.
yesssssss
What?!?! Best news of the week! I went last fall when I was there and had a dreamboat of a meal! The David Hockney exhibit looks amazing.
Berries and chouquettes !!
Looks like you had a great time! I have always wanted to go (who hasn’t?) so it’s nice to see others enjoying this beautiful city. I would stop at a cafe all day too, and as many patisseries as I could. I just finished a book about Hockney called Spring Will Not Be Cancelled; such an interesting artist and life.
How exciting! The creator of your favorite clothing brand is not even FORTY yet?! Also curious, J, I know you spent your baby years in France. Do you speak French? I have high hopes to get to my favorite state park on the Wisconsin Lake Michigan side, but my in-laws are having an anniversary party and that needs to get finalized first. Soon!
I speak just the tiniest bit, I wish I spoke more!! Lake Michigan is stunning xoxo
Possible controversial opinion, but Lake Michigan is the greatest of the Great Lakes 💙